naviquan

This is a picture of a map displayed in piazza Flavio Gioia, Amalfi, Italy. The map is published by http://www.carteguide.com/ - the Italian publisher of maps of Amalfi, Ravello, Ravello, Scala, Positano, Vietri, Furore, Cetara, Praiano, Sorrento, Salerno and Capri. The red arrowed line is our itinerary.

The view on the town of Amalfi (Italy) from the eastern pier. There are three of them in Amalfi; the middle pier is used for boat boarding.

Zooming on the town of Amalfi (Italy) from the eastern pier. The picture shows the heart and the center of Amalfi - piazza Flavio Gioia. The bell-tower visible behind buildings is the one belonging to the Amalfi Cathedral. "Spiaggia Grande" (Large Beach) is on the right side of the photo

The view on the town of Amalfi (Italy) from the eastern pier - panning to the western part of the town in the direction towards Positano, another popular tourist destination on the Amalfi Coast. Positano is located about 10 miles (16 km) from Amalfi.

Grand Hotel Convento di Amalfi (Via Annunziatella 46, 84011 Amalfi, Italy; NH Hotels chain) as seen from the eastern pier. It is located up in the hills in the western part of the town in a former 12th century monastery. It is considered one of the good hotels in Amalfi with its 53 rooms with breathtaking views. High season prices (2012) are from €370 to €720.

This structure with the cross is on the top of the hill overlooking the town of Amalfi (Italy) from its western side.

The view on the town of Amalfi (Italy) from the eastern pier - panning to the eastern part of the town in the direction towards Salerno (located about 14 miles/23 km from Amalfi). The horizontal structure on the slope of the hill is the cemetery. Torre dello Ziro (Tower of Ziro) is above it - this watchtower was once part of a large fortress built above Amalfi called the Castrum Scalelle,

Zooming on the town of Amalfi (Italy) from the eastern pier. The picture shows "Spiaggia Grande" (Large Beach). The pines mark Corso della Repubblica Marinara - this street is a part of SS 163 (Strada Amalfitana). Post office, tourist agency and municipal offices are located on this street/area.

A closer look at the eastern side of Amalfi from the eastern pier. The white building in the middle of the photo is Hotel Marina Riviera (Via Pantaleone Comite 19, 84011 Amalfi, Italy) - one of the best hotels in town. Hotel has 32 rooms; high season rates are €200 - €500 (2012). Hotel Luna Convento (33 Via Pantaleone Comite) is at the right side of the photo - another decent hotel in Amalfi. Prices 2012: €250 - €840.

Big part of piazza Flavio Gioia (Amalfi, Italy) is used as a parking lot. Spaces for private cars are very limited (fortunately, there are other options for parking); most of the parking space is used by buses coming in large numbers to Amalfi with one-day visitors to the town.

Adjacent to piazza piazza Flavio Gioia is Largo Cesario Console (italian "largo" means "broad" in this case it's a small square). There are several bars here but the environment is rather hectic and noisy. Such bars are good if you are waiting for your bus or boat. If you are looking for a quiet place, there are better choices.

A commemorating monument "Amalfi ai Marinai del Mondo" (meaning "from Amalfi to Sailors of the World") is in the middle of Largo Cesario Console. Although the times when Amalfi was one of the powerful maritime republics are all in distant past, Amalfitanoes are very proud of their past.

Statute of Flavio Gioia in Amalfi (Alfonso Balzico, 1900) is located on piazza Flavio Gioia. We found the statute in a rather poor shape. Flavio Gioia (lived around1300) is believed to have been an Italian mariner and inventor traditionally been credited with perfecting the sailor's compass. Recent studies though claim that Flavio Gioia had never existed.

Bar Savoia (foreground) on piazza Flavio Gioia/Largo Cesario Console in Amalfi. The white building in the background is Hotel Lidomare (Largo Duca Piccolomini 9, 84011 Amalfi, Italy). It is a budget hotel - 2012 high season prices are €65 - €145. Not bad for the center town location; however, do not expect anything special here - just a place to spend several nights.

SITA's bus stop is on the eastern side of piazza Flavio Gioia. SITA is a company belonging to the Italian State Railways Group offers various services among which local and long-haul public transportation are the most important and widely used. When traveling along the Amalfi Coast SITA buses are often the best and least expensive option to get from point A to point B.

View on piazza Flavio Gioia from above (in this case from Largo Duca Piccolomini). Cars on the right side of the photo are taxis - actually, this area of the square is the taxi rank (the only one to my knowledge in the central part of Amalfi). By my observation there are always taxis waiting, at least one or two if you desperately need a car (since taxi is expensive and has minimum charge of €10).

View on piazza Flavio Gioia from the eastern part of Amalfi historic center. The road on the right is Corso delle Repubbliche Marinare - a stretch of SS 163 (Strada Amalfitana) that goes through the town of Amalfi. The arch in the background is the underpass - you will have to use it if you travel between Positano and Salerno via Amalfi.

A close-up on the underpass I just mentioned (see previous photo). Again, if you travel along the Amalfi coast, you will have to use it. But look careful on the photo - the street is extremely narrow at this point. For example, two buses traveling in the opposite direction will not fit the passage! I have seen cars/bus situations where vehicles were passing with less (no kidding) than one inch clearance.

Another underpass not far from Amalfi center town. It is a tiny bit wider than the one in the previous photo but not much. Think twice if you want to drive along Strada Amalfitana!

It's time to start the exploration of the Amalfi's historic center and move inside the town away from piazza Flavio Gioia. There are several passages you can use - this short street leads right to piazza Duomo. Hotel Residence (Corso delle Repubbliche Marinare 9, 84011 Amalfi, Italy) is in one of the buildings - it's a good hotel with prices €220-€340 (high season, 2011). However, be careful with sea view rooms if you are sensitive to noise.

Porta della Marina is a pedestrian underpass from Largo Cesario Console to piazza Duomo. Inside, it intersects with SS 163 underpass - be careful, although cars do not go fast because of the narrowness of the street. The building on top hosts Hotel Lidomare which I have mentioned before.

This wonderful majolica (tin-glazed ceramic) on one of the buildings on piazza Flavio Gioia is meant to symbolize the former the maritime power of Amalfi. The phrase starting with ""Ma quei d'Amalfi, cui la lunga spada..." is from the book of Gabriele D'Annunzio (Italian novelist, 1863–1938) "Praises of the sky, earth, sea and heroes." The phrase at the bottom "Contra hostes fidei semper pugnavit Amalphis" is the Amalfitani's motto - from Latin it may mean "Amalfi against the enemies of the faith."

Porta della Marina as viewed from the opposite direction - from piazza Duomo towards piazza Flavio Gioia. Pizzeria "Porto Salvo" (pizza, panini, bruschetta, gelati and beer) is in the foreground of the photo.

Entrance to Church of St. Mary's Square (Chiesa di S. Maria a Piazza) - a tiny church located in the underpass connecting piazza Flavio Gioia with piazza Duomo. The plaque above says: "Il giorno dell giudizio, per gli Amalfitani che andranno in paradiso, sara un giorno come tutti gli altri" ("The Day of Judgement, for the people of Amalfi, which will go to Heaven will be a day like any other"). This is a quote from Renato Ficini (Italian writer, 1843-1921) referring to Amalfi as a paradise despite his overall disdain for the Southern Italy.

A peek inside the Church of St. Mary's Square (Chiesa di S. Maria a Piazza, Amali, Italy)

There are crowds of tourists on piazza Duomo especially in the morning when buses unload groups of organized travelers wishing to visit Amalfi Cathedral (Cattedrale di Sant'Andrea or Duomo di Amalfi), a 9th century church in Amalfi, Italy and one of its main attractions.

Amalfi Cathedral is dedicated to the Apostle Saint Andrew. The church was built in a predominantly Arab-Norman architectural style and was remodeled several times adding Romanesque, Byzantine, Gothic, and Baroque elements.

A close-up on mosaic with Sant'Andrea (located on the corner of the building - see previous photo).

Fountain on piazza Duomo with the statue of Saint Andrew on top. The Latin inscription "Hunc Tibi Perpetuo Sacramus Fontem" can be translated as "Here to you the sacred and never ending source." Hotel Fontana (Piazza Duomo 7, 84011 Amalfi, Italy) is in the background. Hotel has 21 rooms with prices from €110 - €200 for double accommodation (high season, 2012). Unfortunately, reviews are mixed despite the hotel's excellent location.

Piazza Duomo, Amalfi (Italy) - the outdoor sitting area of the "Piazza Duomo" restaurant (what other name could it have?). It is actually a good place to eat especially if you want (just for a change) to find a steak in a town where fish is in abundance and everywhere.

View on piazza Duomo from behind the fountain of Saint Andrew. The Apostle is usually depicted on an X-shaped cross (Crux decussata or saltire) following the belief that he deemed himself unworthy to be crucified on the same type of cross as Jesus. The blue canopy belongs to the "Paul & Shark" brand authorized dealer - the high quality brand inspired by the yachting world especially known for its water repellent wool.

Mostacciuolo Anna S.n.c., Oreficeria Corallo e Cammei (Piazza Duomo, 22 84011 Amalfi, Italy) - a jewelry store with good selection of cameos and jewelry from corals. I have personal and very positive experience with purchasing from this store.

Oreficeria Corallo e Cammei Mostacciuolo (Amalfi, Italy) - window display.

View of the Amalfi Cathedral (Cattedrale di Sant'Andrea or simply Duomo di Amalfi) and the steps leading to it from the Piazza del Duomo. The front facade was rebuilt in 1891. The lace detailing of the arches is not commonly found in Italian churches; however, the colored tiled cupola of its bell-tower is an architectural element found in many other churches on Amalfi Coast.

The view on piazza Duomo (Amalfi, Italy) from the elevated portico in front of the church's entrance. The photo shows nicely the layout of the square - it's not big and surrounded by small shops, bars and restaurants. The sea, piers and marina are just several steps from Duomo (to the left from the viewing point). Via Lorenzo d'Amalfi, the central street in the town, starts on the right.

Before we continue are exploration of the town of Amalfi - there are more things on piazza Duomo to look at. Here is a store offering various ceramics - pottery, plates, tiles: you name it. The ceramic art is very popular in the area and many visitors buy ceramic products as souvenirs. There are many stores in Amalfi offering this type of things.

Gelateria Porto Salvo (piazza Duomo, Amalfi, Italy) may not have glamorous and polished look but it is one of the best places in Amalfi to enjoy gelato (Italian ice cream and sorbet).

Just look at this offering! By the way, recipes to make gelato are different from the ice-cream; the former has significantly less fat and more significantly more sugar. Gelato is typically flavored with fresh fruit, cocoa and various nuts.

Gelateria Bar Francese on piazza Duomo (Amalfi, Italy). I cannot vouch for the quality of pastries the bar is allegedly famous for (I never tried the bar - I tend to avoid places like this in touristy towns and, in addition, on their central squares), but as you can see yourself, the place is rather elegant.

Gelateria Bar Francese on piazza Duomo (Amalfi, Italy) - that's how it looks without umbrellas. A bit "naked" to my taste and not as cozy as with umbrellas opened. Also, the area used by the bar is large enough in comparison to the size of the piazza - this change transforms the looks of the whole place.

To explore the central area of Amalfi one could take via Lorenzo d'Amalfi (on Google maps it is marked incorrectly as via Duomo) and then return back the same way - not very interesting. Instead, we'll use side streets. Not that there are many of them in Amalfi since the town was built around the bed of the former river Canneto covered as early as 13th century thus creating a real urban space along both flanks.

To start this part of our walk, we will take steps on the left side of main steps leading to the Duomo's entrance - see previous photo. Immediately, we come across several restaurants: "Il Chiostro" (Via Dei Prefetturi, 2) and "Taverna degli Apostoli" (piazza del Duomo). The former is definitely less popular among those who tried it. The latter seems to offer decent food (but far from the best you get in Amalfi) - a view on its outdoor sitting area.

Most (but not all) restaurants in Amalfi offer outdoor sittings - a nice feature when the weather is good. At times it even becomes confusing like with the "Il Chiostro" restaurant. Looking at the picture, can you tell whether it was taken inside or outside?

Via Dei Prefetturi is not long indeed. In a minute or two, you hit Largo S. Maria Maggiore. The church of S. Maria Maggiore is located here - it is one of the oldest churches and has a Byzantine layout. It was founded in 986 by Manso I (Mansone), the Duke of Amalfi (also called Manso III). Manso also contributed to the prosperity of S. Andrew Cathedral obtaining from Pope John XV the status of episcopal see for the future cathedral.

I think these tables belong to "Maccus" (Largo S. Maria Maggiore, 1/3), another restaurant catering to tourists (and who is not doing this in Amalfi?). This one offering several tourist menus as cheap as €10 (and more). I guess it's OK.

Inside restaurant "Maccus" (Largo S. Maria Maggiore, 1/3, Amalfi, Italy)

Amalfi still preserves the original Medieval streets. Many of surrounding structures are in the state of a considerable decay which however does not affect the architectural layout and in many cases even original styles of urban development. Building found here were mostly built between 11th and 15th centuries.

You may be wondering where are these ladies heading - through what I would arrogantly call a "rat's hole" between the two buildings. You would never guess unless the sign "Deco" above the "hole."

This is a supermarket "Deco" (Salita dei Curiali, 6, 84011 Amalfi, Italy)! On this photo you can see its entrance. The passage on the left side of it leads right to Largo S. Maria Maggiore I mentioned previously. Hotel "L'Antico Convitto" is on the right - it's a small 3-star hotel (10 rooms) with a good reputation. Prices are €110-€190 (high season 2012).

This is a supermarket "Deco" (Salita dei Curiali, 6, 84011 Amalfi, Italy), entrance. The store (trading under the motto of "Il Carrello delle Bonta" - The Basket of Goodness) is actually rather large - 2700 sq. ft floor (250 sq.m) and very well stocked with the second level dedicated to household products and the first to various foods.

According to Google the street that starts at piazza Duomo and goes inland (north) is via Duomo, in reality, it is via Lorenzo d'Amalfi that soon (in about 400 meters) becomes via Pietro Capuano. Acoording to Google, the continuation of via Duomo is via Cardinal Marino Del Giudice. Anyway, the spot we are currently at is already beyond the point where via Pietro Capuano starts. But we follow now the main Amalfi's "artery" instead of back streets.

Our tour will not go too far from piazza Duomo - only about one kilometer (a bit more than half a mile). But there are so many thing to look at (and potentially try) that it may take some time to cover the route. Here we have Pasquale l'Ostricaro which can be translated as Pasquale, the Fishmonger - it's an oyster and fish shop.

This is Pescheria C.I.C.A., Centro Ittico Costiera Amalfitana (17, Via Pietro Capuano, Amalfi, Italy) - behind this long name is nothing more than a fish market or Amalfi Coast Fish Center. It seems more like a chain of stores since in may other places on Amalfi Coast you find these stores.

The sign pointing to the local office of Tecnocasa (Italian real estate franchise), Primula S.r.l. It is nice to know about it, but for me it is more important to identify for you via Supportico Rua (where Tecnocasa Primula is located). This street is not usual - basically, the whole street goes inside buildings on the right side (facing inland) of via Pietro Capuano.

Display with properties available with Tecnocasa Primula at the moment. If you are looking for a property in Amalfi, Tecnocasa Primula contact information can be useful: phone 089 873344, www.tecnocasa.it, address: via Supportico Rua, 4, 84011 Amalfi, Italy.

Somewhere in the same area (Close to Tecnocasa real estate agency) there is an entrance to a shopping gallery inside/under several buildings with several stores mostly carrying clothing, shoes and souvenirs - as far as I remember one of stores is called "Two Special", another one - "Sweet Rendex-vouz."

An example of what you can find in the shopping mall/gallery shown in the previous photo - it seems that discounts are great - 50% off, on the other hand, as the sign tells us, these are "spring and summer" savings. So, technically, it's already half of the year. And what if during fall/winter they just change the sign so that buyers can feel good all year around?

A window display belonging to one of the stores in the shopping mall/gallery - you can see the variety of goods sold here (and same 50% discounts). By the way, it seems to me that Amalfi fashion is not up to its competition in places like Positano (which is about 10 miles/16 km west from Amalfi).

Signs pointing to "Dolceria dell'Antico Portico", a little shop selling pastries and other sweets. It is located (should I say inside) via Supportico Rua.

This is via Supportico Rua, and the the thing you see in the photo (kind of a table and a couple of chairs, I guess) is used by "Dolceria dell'Antico Portico" (which is a confectionery shop) to accommodate its guests outside (since its is really small and has nothing to impress you inside). Anyway, if you like sweets, perhaps it may be a good idea to visit the "Dolceria" and try their products.

I have seen in Amalfi several places displaying and selling Italian red peppers. The price tag (€5 a bunch) also claims that this pepper is a "natural" VIAGRA (viagra naturale). Well, if in need, take a note but I have doubts that there is any science behind this claim (even if the nutritional properties of Italian red pepper are excellent and it is good as a food component).

Pizza Express (Amalfi, Italy) - I am not trying to tell you that there is anything remarkable about it. Just be aware that in places like this you can grab a piece of something to eat quickly. Typical prices (2012) for "pizze a trancio" (pizza by the slice) are €1,50 - margherita, €2 - margherita farcita (stuffed with additional toppings). Calzoni - €1,50, fagottini - €2, etc. - you get the picture.

Trattoria "La Taverna Del Duca" (Piazza Spirito Santo, 26, 84011 Amalfi, Italy). Some people like it, but for many it may seem like having low value/price proposition. Indeed, the price tag can easily reach €40 -€70 per person (no wine) at this place which may seem excessive at the environment where it's located (but there is also a more upscale indoor area).

In this photo Trattoria "La Taverna Del Duca" is on the left. We are at piazza Spirito Santo which marks the end of via Pietro Capuano (right side of the photo), and we are looking in the direction of piazza Duomo. Incidentally, in the background (closer to the left side) you can see an arch - this is where via Supportico Rua cut inside the buildings exists.

This small fountain is on piazza Spirito Santo next to the entrance to via Supportico Rua. It has a scene with an idealistic representation of the "La Taverna Del Duca" located next to it - there is no doubt as to the artistic intention of the arrangement containing a tiny house with the sign "Taverna." Such miniature scenes are found in many places on the Amalfi Coast - we'll see soon another one.

The same central street in Amalfi beyond piazza Spirito Santo is called via Marino. What we also see in this photo is a bus - it's a shuttle circulation between Amalfi "Porto" (piazza Flavio Gioia) and the very end of via delle Cartiere. The latter is the same central street in Amalfi when its name changes one more time from "via Marino" to "via delle Cartiere" (to give you the whole sequence: via Lorenzo d'Amalfi -> via via Pietro Capuano -> via Marino -> via delle Cartiere).

While we go north inland away from piazza Duomo, we see more recent structures like the white building in the background. I think it's safe to say that this place mark the end of the area where at the time Amalfi Maritime Republic (9th-12th centirues) the structures were build. The wall on the left belongs to the residential complex known as Castriota hospitium domorum ("lodging houses" in Latin).

Trattoria dei Cartari (piazza Spirito Santo 5, 84011 Amalfi, Italy) - this is one of the popular places to eat in Amalfi.

Risto Bar "La dolce vita" a cheap and quick place to eat in Amalfi.

Here is an important part of via Marino - that's where "zona trafico limitato" (limited traffic area) starts. It is enforced rigorously by local municipal police ("vigili urbani").

In Amalfi, limited traffic area through the central street to piazza Flavio Gioia (including transit traffic to reach SS 163/Strada Amalfitana) is designed on the alternating schedule during summer months (mid July - mid September). According to the schedule, the central artery periodically becomes a pedestrian zone for various periods of time (for about an hour or slightly more).

With the limited traffic area/schedule in Amalfi, Italy, there is no exception for anybody. All traffic is blocked and should wait with engines turned off at the checkpoint.