naviquan

In the modern part of the town of Amalfi, the central street becomes wider - this allows us to look at the roofs of buildings and above. What you see are the mountains surrounding the town with terraces on very steep slopes.

Mountains around Amalfi are not very high, and there is plenty of vegetation. Tops of building on such backdrop look very attractive.

Limited space in Amalfi pushes houses closer to each other even if they are of relatively modern construction.

You may be wondering how people living on those slopes around and in Amalfi transport heavy stuff - after all, the access by roads passable by cars is often limited. The answer to this question is simple - donkeys. These domestic animals are very dependable in work - in many places in the area, donkeys are the sole method of heavy goods transport.

That's how donkey transportation is typically used (click on photo to enlarge it to see details): goods are delivered by car to a certain point on a road and donkeys take over. Believe it or not, very big structures have been built or remodeled using this methods.

We are approaching the point where at medieval times the northern gates (Porta dell'Ospedale) to Amalfi were located. The Amalfi's small river Canneto was not covered here until 60s of the last century. The red building is often referred as "A Faenza" (at "Faenza") because of the history of ceramic manufacturing that had been taking place here for several centuries.

Another example of a miniature scene - this one depicts a village or small town that like Amalfi is spread on terraces on a steep mountain slope. The scene is locate in front of the "Faenza" building in Amalfi (Italy).

Display on the wall of the "Faenza" building shedding light on the history of a ceramic store located in it. In addition to the explanation of the origins of the name of the place, it tells us, that the ceramic fabrication started here when "cretaio" (the one who works with "creta" - clay) Andrea da Eboli rented a space from Coluccio Capuano in 1390. The latter was a descendent from Pietro Capuano (Peter of Capua, died 1214), an Italian theologian, a Cardinal and papal legate.

Take a note of the location of this garage and auto repair shop on the other side of the street from the "Faenza" building - Parcheggio e Autorimessa Laudano (via Cardinal Marino Del Giudice, 32, 84011 Amalfi, Italy, phone: +39 089 873561)

This interesting antique store "Old Faenza" is on via Cardinal Marino Del Giudice (Amalfi, Italy) - you will see it as soon as you through the underpass cut through the "Faenza" building. Unfortunately, I do not have any contact information and could not find it in Italian "yellow pages" for Amalfi. Anyway, it is there and sell some really interesting and unexpected stuff.

Merlin Monro, Mussolini and pin-up girls are one of the most dominant themes at "Old Faenza" antique store (via Cardinal Marino Del Giudice, Amalfi, Italy) - some of their displays are on the opposite side of the street always attracting tourists.

There are signs with various mottoes and quotes from Mussolini at Old Faenza" antique store (via Cardinal Marino Del Giudice, Amalfi, Italy). Among them "Molti nemici, molto onore" (Many enemies, much honor, 1931), "Libro e moschetto Fascista perfetto" (Book and Musket perfect Fascist, 1931), "L'Italia desidera la pace ma non teme la guerra" (Italy wants peace but does not fear the war, 1939) and many others.

Samples of artifacts sold at "Old Faenza" antique store (Cardinal Marino Del Giudice, Amalfi, Italy) - crosses (€18 - €28), door handles and knobs (€15 - €38), etc.

"A Faenza" building on via Marino is as far as we go this time from Duomo - and for a good reason. Beyond that point the environment becomes less interesting. So, we turn back and continue to explore the central street in Amalfi to see what we missed. For example, this inner court is in the Castriota hospitium domorum area. Houses are nicely restored.

Salita Campo Castriota off piazza Spirito Santo (Amalfi, Italy). If you are not afraid of steep stairs, going this way will give you a chance to explore Castriota hospitium domorum quarters what used to in the past fortified family dwelling units (similar in concept to modern gated communities).

On the other side of the Amalfi's central street are stairs to Pizzeria Donna Stella (Salita Rascica 2, 84011 Amalfi, Italy) - it's a good pizzeria in town. If you go there, do not be pushed away by the entrance; they have a nice inner garden. To find your way to the pizzeria, you need to enter via Supportico Rua where Salita Rascica starts.

From Salita Campo Castriota I mentioned, moving towards Duomo, next stairway on the right will be Salita Marino Sebaste - it looks like a small labyrinth, but mot to fear. It vey difficult ti get lost in Amalfi.

If you continue for 30-40 more steps on Salita Marino Sebaste (Amalfi, Italy) you will come across Trattoria Pizzeria da Meme.

You can certainly get a good pizza here - Trattoria Pizzeria da Meme. But I am afraid you experience will depend on a bit of luck. The service is somewhat relaxed and if there few guests, it's OK. Also, air conditioning is at minimum in the indoor area (not good). But if you can get a place at one four tables outside, you may enjoy it (protected from sun by thick wall and cooled by light breeze inside the Salita).

The type of pizza you will typically find in Amalfi. It is not as thin as often cooked in Central Italy but is not as thick as sometimes done in Northern Italy.

Continuing moving down towards piazza Duomo and continuing the topic of food - about 100 meters/yards before Duomo on the right side of the street, you will see "Il Tarì" - it may not be the best restaurant in Amalfi but it is good enough to take closer look at it and its menu. You may have to make a reservation for a dinner.

Entrance to Ristorante Il Tarì (via P. Capuano, 9/11, 84011 Amalfi, Italy) - prices are reasonable for this type of establishment (antipasti €6,50- €13, primi €10- €15, secondi €10 - €20, 2011). Service is efficient food is very decent - local cuisine perhaps unpretending but from quality components.

Inside Ristorante Il Tarì - the restaurant is not rather small and as far as I know does not have an outdoor space. Good news is that air conditioning is set as it should so the environment inside is rather pleasant.

Locanda del Marinaio (Via Lorenzo d'Amalfi 20, 84011 Amalfi, Italy) - though address looks different from Ristorante Il Tarì, both are very close to each other (Locanda del Marinaio is on the other side of the street). Again, may not be the best, but Locanda is something to consider. It also has an outdoor area.

Inside restaurant "Locanda del Marinaio" - I think this place offers a very good combination of price value (at least in comparison to some other places in Amalfi). Its environment has elements of modern decor but that does not it less "Italian" as some visitors claimed (rather arrogantly I should say).

Ristorante Pizzeria La Galea (Via Lorenzo d'Amalfi 30, Amalfi, Italy) - yet another restaurant on the central Amalfi's street close to Il Tarì and Locanda del Marinaio. Similar to these two, La Galea is a good place to have lunch or dinner. Prices are excellent as well as the service.

Ristorante Pizzeria La Galea has only indoor sitting area (actually two rooms). Despite its appearances, the restaurant is rather large. I had a chance to eat in all three: La Galea, Il Tarì and Locanda del Marinaio. There are certainly differences between them and things I liked less or more. But I would visit all three again without any hesitation - all three offered good experience and food.

Yet another restaurant in the area - "Da Gemma" (Via Fra Gerardo Sasso 11, Amalfi, Italy) - see the second floor of the building. Although its address may seem strange it is actually one block from Duomo. In my experience this is the best restaurant in Amalfi.

That's the entrance to "Da Gemma" (Amalfi, Italy) - it is from the back side of the restaurant that can be reach from the narrow street (I do not know its name) connecting via Lorenzo d'Amalfi (Amalfi's central street) and piazza dei Dogi.

Restaurant "Da Gemma" has rather large indoor area, but its "gem" is the second level terrace with table overlooking via Lorenzo' Amalfi. That's how the terrace looks during evening hours. At the lower level is Enoteca Masaniello (Enoteca Masaniello Di Anastasio Salvatore, Via Lorenzo d'Amalfi 13, 84011 Amalfi, Italy), a good place to find good wine.

Restaurant "Da Gemma" (Amalfi, Italy) and its second level outdoor terrace - a wonderful place to spend evening especially if you are lucky enough to get a place in "the first row" closer to the balustrade. Tip: if you want this place reserve earlier (even a day or two before); in my experience there is no way to get a place on the terrace without a reservation.

Interestingly, there are not that many art galleries in Amalfi (for example, Positano, a smaller town, has more of them). The one in the photo looked more or less interesting - Galleria D'Asta Raffaello Cattignani Paolo (via P. Capuano 8, 84011 Amalfi, Italy). It is located close to Ristorante Il Tarì I mentioned before - on the other side of the street.

Inside Galleria D'Asta Raffaello Cattignani Paolo (Amalfi, Italy). Prices are high: from hundreds of Euros for small paintings to thousands of Euros for big ones.

There is nothing special about "Bazar Florio" (Bazar S.a.s. di Florio Francesco & C., Via Pietro Capuano 5/7 84011 Amalfi, Italy, www.amalfibazar.com). The store has a large selection of leather goods such as handbags, belts, leather accessories, etc. But it represent a typical Amalfi business catering mostly to visitors. And its storefront is very picturesque.

Another store in the same area: L'Arco Antico d'Antuono (via Pietro Capuano 4-6, 84011 Amalfi, Italy, www.cartadiamalfi.it). This business markets itself as "All of the handmade paper of Amalfi and crafts of the Amalfi Coast." In my taste, many products sold here are quire sophisticated and capitalize on the quality of handmade paper "Made in Amalfi" - paper, stationary, invitations, etc. Its second location is "Amalfi nelle Stampe Antiche" di Luigi D'Antuono located on piazza Duomo, 10.

Agenzia immobiliare Costa-Re (Via Lorenzo D'Amalfi, 38, 84011 Amalfi, Italy, www.costa-re.com, cell +39 3396344907). If you look at the yellow pages, you will find probably 6 - 8 real estate agencies in Amalfi. I think in reality, you can rely on only three: in addition to Costa-re and Tecnocasa Primula (I mentioned before) I've heard about Agenzia Immobiliare Torre but have never had any contact with the latter.

Hotel Antica Repubblica as seen from Via Lorenzo D'Amalfi - the hotel is hidden in Vico dei Pastai 2, 84011 Amalfi, Italy. Vico dei Pastai is a tiny street that is parallel Via Lorenzo D'Amalfi (right side of it going towards Duomo) which can be reached through a narrow passage (Salita Truglio). The hotel is small - 7 rooms with prices from €100 to €160 (2012, high season). Hotel has generally good reviews.

Office and entrance to L'Altra Costiera (via Lorenzo D'Amalfi, 34 84011 Amalfi, Italy, phone 089 8736082, www.altracostiera.com). This company can be useful for those who are looking for vacation accommodations in Amalfi. In addition, they organize historical and nature tours and hikes as well as gastronomic tours.

If you are looking for the restaurant "La Perla" (Salita Truglio, 5, Amalfi, Italy) it is located at the end of this narrow passage called Salita Truglio - actually this is the same "salita" that to Hotel Antica Repubblica and Hotel Amalfi. I do not have any personal experience with "La Perla" but according to reviews, the place does not enjoy high ranking among patrons.

The reason I publish this photo of a happy store on via Lorenzo d'Amalfi is to show the popularity of limoncello - see those bottles with yellowish liquid? Limoncello is an Italian lemon liqueur produced mainly in areas around the Gulf of Naples, the Sorrentine Peninsula and the coast of Amalfi. As far as I am concerned it is just lemon zest is soaked in vodka with sugar added.

We are back to piazza Duomo and ready to explore the area on its side opposite to the Cathedral.

One of the passages (Salita Costanza d'Avalos) leads to Largo Duca Piccolomini - a small square surrounded my old structures. There are several hotels located here but strangely this part of the city, literally two steps from bustling piazza Duomo and piazza dei Dogi (we'll look at it soon) seems somehow abandoned.

Albergo Sant'Andrea is here (Salita Costanza d'Avalos, 1 84011 Amalfi Salerno, Italy). It's a small hotel (8 rooms) with low prices (double room €90 high season). If expectation are low, it's OK. At least location is excellent.

Salita Costanza d'Avalos leads to Largo Duca Piccolomini. By the way, one side of the Largo looks onto piazza Flavio Gioia - so it's very close to the sea and port.

Entrance to Hotel Lidomare (Largo Duca Piccolomini 9, 84011 Amalfi, Italy). I already mentioned in the first part of our Amalfi's gallery. To repeat, this is a budget hotel - 2012 high season prices are €65 - €145 with ratings that are often lower than for other hotels in the area.

Entrance to Hotel Centrale (Largo Duchi Piccolomini, 1, 84011 Amalfi, Italy). This hotel has only 17 rooms and enjoys central location (where some rooms may be noisy even at night) in 14th-century Palazzo Piccolomini. But overall it seems OK - its guests like it.

The "salita" (via Fra Gerardo Sasso) connecting via Lorenzo d'Amalfi with piazza dei Dogi. It is not long but there are several things you can find here. We actually have already seen this place while trying to find and entrance to the restaurant "da Gemma" (see background, with a sign pointing to the left). There is also AC Gioco location with Internet access if you need one.

Boutique Lilli Put is found here as well with sample of local fashion on display right in the middle of the street. "Residenza Luce" located on Via Fra Gerardo Sasso,4, 84011 (Amalfi, Italy) is one of the best B&B in Amalfi. It's a very small Bed & Breakfast - only 5 rooms with prices from €110 - €200 for a double room (2012, high season). Excellent location and service make it a very desirable place to stay - book early!

The main attraction on via Fra Gerardo Sasso 2, 84011 Amalfi, Italy is the store (or bar, whatever you may call it) called A'Sciulia - Yogurt, Sorbetti & Frullati (Yogurt, Smoothies & Sorbets). It's a tiny place with excellent product to taste.

Al products at A'Sciulia: Yogurt, Sorbetti & Frullati are made from home grown products, first of all, lemons.

Another small hotel (or B&B) is located in the proximity of piazza dei Dogi - it is called Residenza del Duca and can be accessed from the tiny street Via Mastalo II Duca, 3, 84011 Amalfi, Italy two steps off via Fra Gerardo Sasso. There are 7 rooms in the hotel with prices €160 - €200 (2012, high season). Residenza del Duca is a good place to stay - reviews are very good.

Just several steps further from Residenza del Duca in the labyrinth of small streets in the old Amalfi, you will find Trattoria Pizzeria San Giuseppe. Technically, its address is Mastalo II Duca,3, 84011 Amalfi, Italy, but do not try to find it on Google maps - they are totally wrong when it comes to Amalfi old center. I say Pizzeria San Giuseppe is good and worth trying.

Piazza dei Dogi (Amalfi, Italy) - the Amalfi port and marina is behind the buildings in the background.

The same Piazza dei Dogi (Amalfi, Italy) as viewed in the opposite direction (from south to north - inland).

Piazza dei Dogi has a shape of a long parallelogram stretching from south to north. It is a small square but it is certainly an interesting place to explore (and enjoy). There are several restaurants (and some of them are good), shops, pharmacy, even a small "supermarket". What we see in the photo is the ourdoor area of "l'Abside" - pizzeria and wine bar.

Entrance to "l'Abside", pizzeria and wine bar on piazza dei Dogi (Amalfi, Italy). Most people coming to eat here prefer outdoor sitting - this is because the square is usually well protected from the sun by surrounding buildings. l'Abside" is one of the best places to eat in Amalfi - it simple but the food is good and service is excellent. They serve draught (draft) beer (extra large €7,60 - small €3), antipasti €8-€10, primi €9-€13, secondi €9-€18, pizze €7-€11 (2011).

Inside "l'Abside" - pizzeria and wine bar on piazza dei Dogi (Amalfi, Italy)

Another food establishment on piazza dei Dogi - Trattoria "da Baracca" (piazza dei Dogi 12, 84011 Amalfi, Italy). I've heard different things about this place (but not personal experience). The best way to summarize what I know is to say that the food and service are inconsistent. You decide if you want to make a bet.

This place is called La Taverna di Masaniello (vicolo Masaniello, 14, Amalfi, Italy) - although you do not see piazza dei Dogi in its address, believe me, it is piazza dei Dogi (one of its corners)! I would say it is an average place with reasonable prices which are not very high but not low either. I would not suggest avoiding this place, but I would not start here my exploration of Amalfi's gastronomic wonders either.

I liked these tiles at the entrance to La Taverna di Masaniello (Amalfi, Italy)

Inside La Taverna di Masaniello (Amalfi, Italy) - the place is clean with the decor consisting mostly of ceramic art on its walls.

Risto (Piazza dei Dogi, 84011 Amalfi, Italy) is another restaurant on piazza dei Dogi I want to mention.

A peek inside restaurant Risto (Piazza dei Dogi, 84011 Amalfi, Italy) - nothing special about this place: neither good not bad. If you need to eat and "l'Abside" (which is ten steps away) is full, then go for it.

Al least one good thing about Risto (Amalfi, Italy) is that they have an outdoor sitting area (but again, it is not the only restaurant) where you can sit outside and enjoy the surroundings while eating.

The dark arch in the middle of background of the photo is a narrow passage that connects piazza dei Dogi with piazza Flavio Gioia/Largo Cesario Console (Amalfi, Italy).

In the middle of the day, such passages do not look scary (which is usually not true when it is dark) - Amalfi, Italy.

Art Centrale Capodimonte shop on piazza Flavio Gioia/Largo Cesario Console - we are back to where we started. As far as "Art Centrale" is concerned, if you need a souvenir from Amalfi, it's a good place to find all sorts of stupid things that are fortunately not expensive. Just do not buy corals and cameos here.

Talking about souvenirs - who do you like these nice lemons at €3 a piece (which includes actually two lemons) at Art Centrale Capodimonte ( Amalfi, Italy)?

Piazza Flavio Gioia/Largo Cesario Console (Amalfi) - a sculpture. It adds to the atmosphere of the place.

If you remeber, we started our Amalfi tour on piazza Flavio Gioia - this photo is to remind about this. Our next destination is the eastern part of the town. You see it in the background of the photo.