naviquan

We go back to a familiar place on piazza Flavio Gioia/Largo Cesario Console (Amalfi, Italy) - that's where a narrow passage leading to piazza dei Dogi is located.

Piazza Flavio Gioia is our point of reference - from the this point we'll move to the western part of the Amalfi's center (which is like moving in the direction towards Positano).

Most part of piazza Flavio Gioia is used as a parking lot. For private cars the price per hourly parking is €5 (during the day)

If you travel along the Amalfi coast without a car, keep in mind the name of Syrenbus (www.syrenbus.com), a bus and service provider in the area. The company provide excellent service - imousine, minivan, bus, taxi and shuttle are available with private driver english spoken for transfers and excursions.

View from piazza Flavio Gioia on the middle pier - its right side is used for passenger boarding. So, when we are talking about Amalfi "port" - that's what it is! The area between the middle pier and the eastern pier is called "Darsena" which can be translated as "dock" - however, I have seen any particular activity in the Darsena area.

This shows a view on Amalfi from the middle pier - nothing special here. In the lower part of the photo you can see tops of buses - piazza Flavio Gioia is full of them. I said before that the square is used mostly as a parking lot; well, I should add as a parking lot for tourist buses. Tens if not hundred of them arrive every day in the morning, unload crowds of tourist and depart in the afternoon.

If you see people on piazza Flavio Gioia, most of them have just got out of their buses and waiting for their group to be organized to proceed to piazza Duomo (and other touristy places). Or, they are waiting for their bus to get out of Amalfi to wherever they come from. In between, why not to eat an ice-cream in one of many bars in the square?

A cute small fountain in piazza Flavio Gioia. A boy and girl under umbrella protecting from water dripping from its top.

If you are trying to find a place for your car on a parking lot on piazza Flavio Gioia, be very careful. It seems that there are several of them (at least two) with slightly different rules. Anyway, there are better options for parking a car - I will show them to you later.

This photo shows a public restroom (its entrance is behind the bench). Keep it in mind; there are not that many public restrooms in Amalfi.

Bar Flavio Gioia on... piazza Flavio Gioia. Creative or not this name is, but it's a good place to kill some time while waiting for your bus or boat.

The ticket area of the Amalfi "port" - there are several booths used by different service providers to sell their tickets. The blue stand on the right side is the parking lot payment ticket machine. The red bag on a trolley (chained to the pavement) is a fire extinguisher.

This picture shows two booths: Cooperativa Sant'Andrea (Collegamenti Marittimi Veloci e Servizi Turistici - www.coopsantandrea.com) and Travelmar Trasporti Veloci Marittimi (www.travelmar.it). The first is offering service to Capri and some transfer services to beaches. The second sells tickets to Positano, Salerno, Minori, Maiori. Ignore the sign with Navigazione Libera del Golfo - it looks like it's not operational.

There had been a lot of talks about whether Metro del Mare lines will continue servicing their Amalfi Coast destinations - as this note (displayed in the company's booth) states, all operation in the area would be discontinued from Sep. 4th 2011 (which is confirmed on Metro del Mare Web site: www.metrodelmare.net)

The promenade that starts from piazza Flavio Gioia (Amalfi, Itali) is called Lungomare dei Cavalieri (Promenade of the Knights). It is not long - less than half a mile (about 700 m). But there are some interesting places to be aware of. Also, it is rather pleasant and quiet place to take walk away from crowds in Amalfi's center.

Above Lungomare dei Cavalieri is via Matteo Camera (a.k.a. SS163 or Strada Amalfitana. One thing that I do not like about the Promenade is that there are maintenance facilities belonging to SITA's bus lines.

Another look at Lungomare dei Cavalieri - one of the reason to know this place is because the road along it leads to another parking lot (where chances to find a place are much higher). Also, hotels located around the Promenade are accessible by car (opposite to most hotels in the Amalfi center where a walk with your luggage is almost always inevitable). The building on the left hosts Ristorante La Marinella.

Talking about hotels - here is Hotel La Bussola (Lungomare dei Cavalieri, 16 - 84011 Amalfi, Italy). This is (by Amalfi standards) rather large hotel (60 rooms) with reasonable prices (€150 - €250 for double room, breakfast included, 2012, high season). There is a nice terrace on the top; all rooms have sea view.

The green deck on the right of the photo belongs to hotel La Bussola. But the hotel's management is very wise not to advertise it as their private beach. It is located in the area of marina with moorings for boats. Although it may be interesting to spend some leisure time watching them (and their owners), the sea is not clean here. La Bussola instead directs its guest looking for a beach the Marina Grande (offering both a free and private bathing establishments) and the Lido delle Sirene private beach at the end of the Promenade.

The nautical base of Amalfi's branch of La Lega Navale Italiana is located here as well. The Italian Navy League is rather influential and popular public organization (created in 1897) currently under the patronage of the Italian Ministries of Defense and of Transport and Navigation aimed at spreading the "love for the sea" among the Italian people with the focus on young generation.

Several buildings located in Lungomare dei Cavalieri (Amalfi, Italy) have rather threatening sings and warnings about approaching military zones with unauthorized access prohibited (and enforced by weapons).

Here is the building of Italian Coast Guard - one of those military restricted areas, But we have not noticed any special activity or interference with the everyday life of regular citizens or tourists resulting from such presence.

Closer to the end of the Lungomare dei Cavalieri (Amalfi) you will see this gated entrance. It does not have any prominent signs (other than W.C.) but keep in mind its location because there are public restrooms and public showers.

Several steps up the stairway (called Scalinata dei Nauclerii) and you will see public restrooms (rather clean - two doors in the building) and public showers - right on the stairway landing. One problem - Scalinata dei Nauclerii is CLOSED when the daylight goes away.

The stairway continues beyond public restrooms. It leads to a pedestrian bypass (see next photo) around the second from Amalfi's center tunnel on SS163. Because of this, the stairway I am talking about serves as a shortcut if you need to get to hotels and other places located on SS163 in the western part of Amalfi.

Here is the pedestrian bypass I have just mentioned - it is called Passeggiata Longfellow and it goes outside and around La galleria dei Cappuccini (Tunnel of the Capuchins) and allows tourists and residents alike to walk up and down from the road to the waterfront using the stairway I've talking about (Scalinata dei Nauclerii ).

But let's continue our exploration of Lungomare dei Cavalieri - here is the entrance to Ristorante Lido Azzurro (Lungomare dei Cavalieri 5, 84011 Amalfi, Italy). It is one of the good restaurants in Amalfi (but far from being the best) with excellent views and romantic atmosphere.

I already showed you several time ceramic art (so popular on the Amalfi coast area) on wall of various buildings. This one belongs to Ristorante Lido Azzurro representing in a stylized way Amalfi, its surroundings and life as well as guests coming to the restaurant.

Inside Ristorante Lido Azzurro (Lungomare dei Cavalieri 5, 84011 Amalfi, Italy).

Lungomare dei Cavalieri - here you can rent a boat, get water taxi, make arrangements for private excursions. Note that there are restaurants in the Amalfi area that require boat service to reach.

We are getting closer to the end of Lungomare dei Cavalieri (Amalfi, Italy)

This beach is called La Spiaggia del Porto - this public beach is accessible from Lungomare dei Cavalieri and rather quiet. From two small piers (you can see them in the photo) private boats depart for coastal excursions and transfer services to other beaches.

Another problem with La Spiaggia del Porto beach is that it is squeezed between two restaurants. One if them is Lido Azzurro; another is Lo Smeraldino. You can see Lo Lo Smeraldino in the photo. In fact, one side of its building marks the end of the beach.

Entrance to Ristorante Bar Pizzeria Lo Smeraldino (Piazzale dei Protontini, 1 84011 Amalfi, Italy). This is one of those many restaurants in Amalfi which although not exceptional still can offer good food and decent service. And as usually, you experience will depend on your expectations.

Inside Ristorante Lo Smeraldino. As you can see it's environment evolves around maritime ambient which includes on Amalfi marina full of small and larger boats. I would define Smeraldino's prices as slightly above average for this type of places. Pizzas are (2011) €7 - €9,50, primi: €9,50 - €13,50. Secondi, for example, gamberoni €17,50, grigliata mista €24,50, zuppa di pesce €35. I would not eat meat at this place.

If you noticed, Lo Smeraldino's address is Piazzale dei Protontini - this square is located at the very end of Lungomare dei Cavalieri. Let's take a look back at the promenade. Note that it is much quieter than the Amalfi's center.

Point of sale of Amalfi Charter under umbrella in front of Ristorante Lo Smeraldino. Amalfi Charter (www.amalficharter.it, phone 089 852149 and 335 5443010) is in business of rental and charter sail and motor boats in the area of Amalfi Coast, Capri, Ischia, Sorrento, Ponza.

Amalfi Charter's display illustrating some of their boats and excursion itineraries. This business is very flexible it offers trips to small marine villages, fishing trips, romantic trips under the moonlight, skiing - show our creativity - according to the map, Amalfi Charter can go any place from Ischia to Sorrento and to Salerno.

Pontile (pier) Coppola at Amalfi Harbor - mooring and and transit boats and yachts up to 35 meters (115 feet). Have one of those - here are phone numbers: +39.089.873091, cell +39.339.4224484.

If you need daily, weekly, monthly and seasonal stopover with arrival and departure assistance with round the clock surveillance, 220v - 380v electricity and running water, Pontile Coppola is at your service.

A couple of larger yachts moored to Pontile Coppola: Du Ciel and Delfina.

Yet another point of sale offering boats for rent and excursion. I cannot offer any additional information on Vento di Levante Soc.Coop. which operates this service. Will it be here next year?

Amalfi's harbor is protected by rather large breakwater (or bulkhead) from its western side. The breakwater is open to public for walking.

The best way to watch Amalfi's marina is from the harbor's breakwater. Foreground: Pontile Coppola, background: Ristorante Lo Smeraldino.

View on Amalfi from the harbor's breakwater. Some boats are moored directly to the breakwater on its eastern (protected) side.

The western (exposed) side of Amalfi harbor breakwater. Note huge concrete blocks - the main line of defense against storms and waves. Also, look at these cars! Yes, there is a parking lot along the whole breakwater - very clever.

A fisherman taking care of fishing net - watching from Amalfi harbor breakwater.

Watching boats from Amalfi harbor breakwater.

Watching from Amalfi harbor breakwater- sailor's job is never done.

Watching from Amalfi harbor breakwater- Guardia Costiera (Coast Guard) inflatable boat (dinghy).

Watching boats from Amalfi harbor breakwater.

While we are moving towards the end of Amalfi harbor breakwater, it is time to look back to the shore.

Amalfi harbor breakwater is rather long and quite comfortable for walking. There are benches if you want to enjoy the moment and some breeze on a hot day. The photo also shows large parking lot space built into the breakwater.

At the very tip of the Amalfi's breakwater there is a small tower with lens lantern marking a safe entry to the harbor.

A boat with passengers departing from Amalfi's port passing Amalfi harbor breakwater.

I already mention the parking lot located along the Amalfi harbor breakwater. Many visitors do not know about and do not know how to find it. Here is the entrance to the parking lot (hourly price is "only" €3). Beware - this space is used on Wednesdays by local market. If you park, the car will be towed away.

The private beach is called "Le Sirene" following the name of the establishment "Lido delle Sirene" (which also includes the namesake restaurant). The beach is quiet and has a clean water (separated from marina by the harbor's breakwater). However, concrete blocks of the left and some rocks on the right make it less pleasurable.

Hotel Aurora (Piazzale dei Protontini, 7 84011 Amalfi, Italy) and restaurant "Lido delle Sirene" (Piazzale dei Protontini, 3). The hotel (29 rooms) is one of the good hotels in Amalfi with prices (2012) in the range €140 - €180 (remember, it also offers apartments in the center area of Amalfi). Unfortunately I cannot offer any information regarding Lido delle Sirene.

This photo is here for two reasons: it shows Hotel La Conchiglia (B&B located on Piazzale dei Protontini 9, Amalfi, Italy). Also, if you are looking for an alternative shortcut to get to hotels and other places located on SS163 in the western part of Amalfi (when Scalinata dei Nauclerii I mentioned earlier is closed), here is Salita Santa Caterina.

Salita Santa Caterina connects Piazzale dei Protontini (Amalfi, Italy) with SS163 (where the road enters tunnel "dei Cappuccini" and "Passeggiata Longfellow" begins). It is always open and not that difficult to do.

No matter how pleasant Salita Santa Caterina may seem during daytime (indeed, it offers great views), you may not want to use it at night. There are (almost) no lights - and it's not only difficult to use, but you may also be really scared by being along (or with your companion) on this spooky stairway (unless you have a black belt in karate).

Looking uphill from the Salita Santa Caterina. SS 163 (Strada Amalfitana) is visible in front of the yellow building.

View on Amalfi harbor breakwater from SS163 (Strada Amalfitana). On the left side you can see a part of "Passeggiata Longfellow" (see next photo for better view).

View on "Passeggiata Longfellow" from SS163 (Strada Amalfitana). This pedestrian only way allow to bypass completely La galleria dei Cappuccini (Tunnel of the Capuchins). Believe me, you would not like to share this narrow tunnel with cars.

Strada Statale 163 (Strada Amalfitana) - this part of the road is also called via Salvatore Quasimodo. The terrace above the stone wall in the center with tables is Ristorante "La Preferita" (Via Quasimodo, 20, 84011 Amalfi, Italy). This actually is a very good restaurant for dinner (cena). Romantic atmosphere and views to die for. Food is good as well.

Looking down from SS163 (Strada Amalfitana) - cliffs with some vegetation. But make no mistake: among those cliffs there are private residences and hotels. A lot of ingenuity has been involved to developed these seemingly inhospitable rocks into something where human beings can live and enjoy the amazing landscape of Amalfi Coast.

Hotel Miramalfi (Via Salvatore Quasimodo, 3 84011 Amalfi, Italy) - when you look at it from SS163 (Strada Amalfitana) it is difficult to understand the layout and the size of the hotel - it is all located below the road carved into the cliffs. Hotel has 49 rooms, all with sea-view balconies. Prices (2012, high season) are from €320 - €560 (double occupancy, breakfast and taxes included). It is a good hotels with good prices, believe me!

Hotel "Il Nido" (Via Salvatore Quasimodo, 30 84011 Amalfi, Italy) - another good hotel in the western part of Amalfi. It's rather small and less expensive than its neighbor "Miramalfi" - Il Nido prices (2012, high season) are from €130 - €170 fro double occupancy. One big minus is that all Il Nido premises are located above the road (meaning more noise).

Hotel "Il Nido" - its parking lot is on the opposite side of the street. Parking space is not large, but on the other hand the hotel is not big.

We are close to the end of our tour - we approach Hotel Santa Caterina, the most expensive and most luxurious hotels in Amalfi. Hotel has 66 rooms with prices (2012, year around) €550 - €2800 (10% taxes not included). Read our review of the hotel for more details.