Cortona, Italy
Citta di Cortona (town of Cortona) surrounded
by a stone
wall
Cortona is one of the oldest cities in Tuscany. Originally, it was founded by the Etruscans. Although this fact is undisputable, very little is actually known about the early history of Cortona. The medieval Cortona is known much better - the town played an important role in power struggle and feuds during that period. At some time in history Cortona even enjoyed its independency which was lost at the beginning of 15th century with the annexation of Cortona by Florence and later by Grand Duchy of Tuscany. Anyway, the role of Cortona was gradually diminished, and today it's known as one of the most charming tourist destinations in Tuscany.
Some tourist guides point to the fact that the rise in tourism was triggered by the publication of the book "Under the Tuscan Sun" by American writer Frances Mayes and later on by the movie of the same name. Whether this is true or not, Cortona is a very interesting and well-preserved medieval place with its stone paved narrow streets, many historic palaces, churches and buildings. Given the central location of Cortona, the town can be used as a starting point for visiting other places in central Italy either by car or train. Arezzo and Siena are among places. Finally, Cortona has a good tourist infrastructure is many hotels and places to eat.
The time to spend in Cortona depends on your traveling habits - I would recommend to allocate at least four or five days to enjoy the beauty of Cortona and other places around it. Keep in mind that in July and August Cortona is jammed with tourists - perhaps September is the best time to go there.
1. Approaching Cortona from South-West (SP32). The town is on the hill (altitude 600 metres or 2130 ft.). The best way to come to Cortona is to use a train or a car. |
2. View from Cortona to the South. Lake Trasimeno is in the background |
3. Santa Maria Nuova, built by Giorgio Vasari in 1554 - an example of a Renaissance architecture. It is outside the town walls and closed to public. |
4. Piazza Mazzini, porta Colonia and parking lot. If you coming to Cortona with a car, you will have to leave it on one of the parking lots outside the town walls (assuming that you are lucky enough to find a place). |
5. There are seven openings (porta - a door) in the city wall that can be used by cars. |
6. Street policewoman (vigile urbano) on Piazzale Garibaldi watching for illegally parked cars. If you are a guest of a hotel, there is no problem to cross the wall line and drive to a hotel - assuming that you have an arrangements with hotel management for parking your car. |
7. Usually, there is nothing interesting behind the wall. Parts of the Etruscan city wall can still be seen in some places. |
8. Piazza della Repubblica, Palazzo Comunale (town hall) |
9. View on Piazza della Repubblica from steps of town hall. The beginning of Via Nazionale is in the background, right. |
10. Cortona was used as the setting for the film Under the Tuscan Sun, starring Diane Lane, based on the book by Frances Mayes. This terrace on Piazza della Repubblica was shown in the movie. |
11. Piazza della Republica: several cozy bars are located here - favorite place for dolce far niente. Via Guelfa is on the right. |
12. Among places to visit on Piazza della Repubblica: bar Meledetti Toscani, trattoria La Grotta (in the inner court), enoteca (wine shop) Molesini. |
13. Enoteca Molesini, window display. Molesini Giovanni opened his shop in Cortona in 1937. Current enoteca location is on Piazza della Repubblica where the shop is offering about 1500 wines and some traditional foods as olive oil, prosciutto and cheese. There is a small area for wine tasting (sits about 10 persons). |
14. Hotel San Michele on via Guelfo not far from Piazza della Repubblica |
15. Beginning of the via Roma from Piazza della Republica |
16. On via Roma - entrance to Piazza della Republica is in the background |
17. On Piazza Signorelli (the second big square in the town center) - view on the town hall |
18. On Piazza Signorelli - view on Teatro Signorelli |
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20. Heraldic flags with various coat of arms are very popular in Cortona |
21. On Piazza della Repubblica - beginning of via Nazionale (also called Rugapiana). This street is mostly for pedestrians and has a lot of small shops, cafes, bars. |
22. Narrow passages with steps are often used to connect parallel streets |
23. Another passage connecting via Nazionale with vecchio Ospedale (hospital) |
24. This shoe shop is at the very beginning of via Nazionale |
25. Il Pozzo - famous gift shop and art gallery - can be reached by narrow passage 20 yards from via Nazionale |
26. Inside Il Pozzo - gift shop and art gallery |
27. There are several shops with antiques (Antichita) on via Nazionale. |
28. Cafe Tuscher - an upscale cafe on via Nazionale |
29. Nocchia - another art gallery on via Nazionale |
30. Nocchia, art gallery in Cortona, window display |
31. Ceramic arts are well presented in Cortona with several shops. This is an example of such art in one of them. |
32. Osteria del Teatro on via Maffei (50 yards from piazza Signorelli) in Cortona - a popular place among tourists and locals |
33. Osteria del Teatro has several tables outside |
34. Osteria del Teatro, menu - gives a flavor of this place |
35. Most streets in Cortona are empty day and night and retain their medieval charm |
36. The prevailing character of Cortona architecture is medieval with steep narrow streets. |
37. This is an example of a well restored medieval building on via Dardano |
38. Via Dardano - all streets in Cortona are one-way streets. This one allows traffic (for cars with permits) from Porta Colonia into the town. |
39. Despite not so much outside appearances, Trattoria Dardano is considered a very good restaurant offering typical Tuscan dishes. |
40. La Cattedrale di Santa Maria - Duomo (cathedral) in Cortona. This is one of many functioning churches in Cortona. Originally built in 11th century and restored in 18th century. |
41. Inside Duomo - this cathedral has a significant collection of artistic and religious objects often brought from other churches in Cortona that were either destroyed or abolished. Among them some paintings by Luca Signorelli, (native to Cortona) and Fra Angelico |
42. Inside the Parocchial Chiesa (parish church) of San Filippo Neri on via Roma. On interesting thing about this church is that it does not have a facade. |
43. Another example of a street in Cortona. The cat in the middle of it certainly adds to the atmosphere of the place. |
44. Some streets have narrow long passages under buildings |
45. Via Jannelli in Cortona known for its medieval houses, one of oldest survived in Italy. |
46. Construction details of medieval houses on via Jannelli - massive timbers supporting overhanging upper floors. |
47. The feel and look of streets changes when you go higher up to the top of the Cortona hill. |
48. Inner court of the church of S. Francesco |
49. Inside the church of S. Francesco in Cortona |
50. This very old and picturesque road with cypresses on both sides is the only way to get on feet to the Sanctuary (and church) of Santa Margherita |
51. Church of Santa Margherita (occupying the site of an old Gothic church dated 13th century) and Fortezza Medicea di Girafalco (see castle in the background) located in the Eastern part of the town at its highest point. |
52. Inside the Church of Santa Mergherita. This is a very old church rebuilt and altered many times. Its current modern look relates to the end of 19th century. The body of St Margherita is still under the high altar and 13th century Crucifix, within a solid silver urn. |
53. October festival in Cortona involves flag throwing, archery and sword fighting. That is how participants prepare for the event. |
54. View from Church of St. Margherita. |
55. La Loggetta - La Locanda nel Loggiato - this restaurant hosted by 13th century building offers good local cuisine in an interesting environment. |
56. Inside Il Preludio - an upscale restaurant in Cortona with a well-established reputation. Excellent service and environment, good food. Located very close to the Piazza della Repubblica. |
57. The restaurant Il Cacciatore on via Roma was the first restaurant opened in the medieval city of Cortona, in 1904. Some of its rooms were a part of the medieval town hall of Cortona. |
58. Hostaria La Bucaccia is located in via Ghibellina. After visiting a number of restaurants in Cortona, I can say this is the best we found in town. Maintained by a family, it offers exquisite cuisine in typical Tuscan and Cortonese traditions. |
59. The ambient at La Bucaccia is very cozy; the host, Romano is a very interesting person who serves and entertains by serving. Chef, Agostina is an amazing cook and their daughter Francesca helps her parents where she can. Highly recommended. |