Paestum (Italy) - Central Excavation Area (Scavi)

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Slideshow  |  Lightbox (80) Tags: architecture   campania   europe   history   italy   paestum   ruins   tourist-attraction Posted: Oct. 3, 2011 by Serge
Paestum (Italy) - Map of the central excavation area.

Paestum (Italy) - Map of the central excavation area (click on map to enlarge).

Having published in our Travel Ideas section an article about Paestum (Italy), we thought that it would be a good idea to compliment it with a photo gallery to provide better idea what travelers can expect to see and learn. This is the first part of such gallery; it is dedicated to the Paestum central excavation area (scavi). The second part of the gallery is about the National (Paestum) Archeological Museum. The Museum has on display numerous artifacts recovered and excavated in the main archeological site.

Visiting Paestum is both fun and education. However, tourists need to set their expectations. Despite many high rated hotels, and world-wide Paestum's fame as an amazing place with ancient treasures, it has never become a trendy tourist resort. There would be nothing wrong with this if the public infrastructure and facilities were more in line with the importance of cultural heritage that Paestum and its archeological sites represent. So, do not expect to see anything like a seaside promenade with an alley of Italian pines. I have heard from locals a colorful description of Paestum as a "Ferrari without a pilot." I guess it means that the local government does not pay enough attention to making its gem looking more like a real jewelry. Instead, you may be surprised with dirty streets and lack of sidewalks.

Fortunately, all this cannot diminish the magnificence of ancient Greek architecture epitomized by the three temples (all in a very good state of preservation). By the way, all three have undergone in recent years renovation and repairs. And if you are not impressed enough watching them during daytime, come in the evening to see the majestic view of temples illuminated by lights.

Tip: this Wikipedia article can help you with terminology related to Greek temples and their architecture.

Paestum (Italy) - Map of the central excavation area.

Paestum (Italy) - Map of the central excavation area.

There are three public entrances to the Paestum excavation area - Northern, Eastern and Southern where the North-East entrance is considered the main one. However, if you arrive with a car and need a parking lot, your only option is Southern entrance with the parking lot. If you arrive early, there will be a parking spot for you.

There are three public entrances to the Paestum excavation area - Northern, Eastern and Southern where the North-East entrance is considered the main one. However, if you arrive with a car and need a parking lot, your only option is Southern entrance with the parking lot. If you arrive early, there will be a parking spot for you.

Peastum (Italy) - ticket booth at the Southern entrance to the excavation area. In addition to the parking lot, its main advantage is its cleanness.

Peastum (Italy) - ticket booth at the Southern entrance to the excavation area. In addition to the parking lot, its main advantage is its cleanness.

Paestum excavation area, ticket booth at the Southern entrance to the archeological park. You can also buy souvenirs here. Entrance to the excavation area is €6, entrance to the museum is €4 (2011, full price, separate tickets). You can also buy "Cumulativo" (valid for both places for three days) for €11.

Paestum excavation area, ticket booth at the Southern entrance to the archeological park. You can also buy souvenirs here. Entrance to the excavation area is €6, entrance to the museum is €4 (2011, full price, separate tickets). You can also buy "Cumulativo" (valid for both places for three days) for €11.

Southern entrance to the Paestum excavation area - on one side of the parking lot, there is a restaurant "Nettuno." Arguably, it is the best (albeit more expensive) dining option at the Paestum archeological area.

Southern entrance to the Paestum excavation area - on one side of the parking lot, there is a restaurant "Nettuno." Arguably, it is the best (albeit more expensive) dining option at the Paestum archeological area.

Inside restaurant "Nettuno" located at the Southern entrance to the Paestum excavation area. The restaurant is rather large and have both, inside and outside sittings. Opposite to many Italian restaurants claiming to have air conditioning (but barely using it to save on electricity), "Nettuno" offers really nice environment inside on hot summer days.

Inside restaurant "Nettuno" located at the Southern entrance to the Paestum excavation area. The restaurant is rather large and have both, inside and outside sittings. Opposite to many Italian restaurants claiming to have air conditioning (but barely using it to save on electricity), "Nettuno" offers really nice environment inside on hot summer days.

Inside restaurant "Nettuno" located at the Southern entrance to the Paestum excavation area - outdoor sitting area. It is rather upscale restaurant, The service is quick and efficient; food is good.

Inside restaurant "Nettuno" located at the Southern entrance to the Paestum excavation area - outdoor sitting area. It is rather upscale restaurant, The service is quick and efficient; food is good.

Southern entrance to the Paestum excavation area. The location of the entrance coincides with the location of the ancient entrance to the settlement (Porta Sud). Remnants of the medieval wall are visible very well from this spot.

Southern entrance to the Paestum excavation area. The location of the entrance coincides with the location of the ancient entrance to the settlement (Porta Sud). Remnants of the medieval wall are visible very well from this spot.

When entering Paestum excavation area from the south, you are immediately captivated by the view of the two (of three) preserved temples - the closest to you will be the Temple of Hera. The one behind it is the Temple of Neptune.

When entering Paestum excavation area from the south, you are immediately captivated by the view of the two (of three) preserved temples - the closest to you will be the Temple of Hera. The one behind it is the Temple of Neptune.

The Temple of Hera, Paestum (Italy) the view on side columns of the "Basilica" (as the temple was mistakenly called by scientists who rediscovered it in 700s).

The Temple of Hera, Paestum (Italy) the view on side columns of the "Basilica" (as the temple was mistakenly called by scientists who rediscovered it in 700s).

The Temple of Hera, Paestum (Italy) - Hera is the wife of Zeus and the main divinity of Poseidonia (the original name of this Greek settlement). The temple is dated back to 550-540 BC. Its hall is divided by a row of columns into two parts - this gives reasons for some scholars to believe that it was dedicated also to Proserpina (Persephone).

The Temple of Hera, Paestum (Italy) - Hera is the wife of Zeus and the main divinity of Poseidonia (the original name of this Greek settlement). The temple is dated back to 550-540 BC. Its hall is divided by a row of columns into two parts - this gives reasons for some scholars to believe that it was dedicated also to Proserpina (Persephone).

The Temple of Neptune is the most majestic and best preserved structures at the Paestum archeological park. The name of Neptune (or Poseidon) reflects more a popular tradition in naming the temple originated from the 18th century research. Current thinking is that the temple is dedicated to Hera (consequently, it is also referred as Temple of Hera II) and was built 450-460 BC. Yet another name of the temple is the Temple of Apollo based on evidences he was the patron of the temple.

The Temple of Neptune is the most majestic and best preserved structures at the Paestum archeological park. The name of Neptune (or Poseidon) reflects more a popular tradition in naming the temple originated from the 18th century research. Current thinking is that the temple is dedicated to Hera (consequently, it is also referred as Temple of Hera II) and was built 450-460 BC. Yet another name of the temple is the Temple of Apollo based on evidences he was the patron of the temple.

The Temple of Neptune (Paestum, Italy) is is one of the best preserved Greek temples in the world and a exceptional example of classical Greek architecture (Dorian order) with its perfect balance of proportions and the weight of material. This photo illustrates the upper part (entablature) of its front including frieze, tympanon (triangular pediment) and sima (an edge around tympanon).

The Temple of Neptune (Paestum, Italy) is is one of the best preserved Greek temples in the world and a exceptional example of classical Greek architecture (Dorian order) with its perfect balance of proportions and the weight of material. This photo illustrates the upper part (entablature) of its front including frieze, tympanon (triangular pediment) and sima (an edge around tympanon).

The Temple of Neptune (Paestum, Italy) - close-up on the roofing details of the structure illustrating typical elements of the Dorian order - a frieze dominated by the triglyphs (vertically channelled tablets) separated by metopes (filling the space between triglyphs).

The Temple of Neptune (Paestum, Italy) - close-up on the roofing details of the structure illustrating typical elements of the Dorian order - a frieze dominated by the triglyphs (vertically channelled tablets) separated by metopes (filling the space between triglyphs).

The Temple of Neptune (Paestum, Italy) - details of the lower parts of the structure: columns and crepidoma (platform of, usually, three levels upon which the rest of the building is erected). This photo also shows the naos of the Temple of Neptune and its cella. The opening between two middle columns reveals that the naos is divided by two rows of two-tiered columns.

The Temple of Neptune (Paestum, Italy) - details of the lower parts of the structure: columns and crepidoma (platform of, usually, three levels upon which the rest of the building is erected). This photo also shows the naos of the Temple of Neptune and its cella. The opening between two middle columns reveals that the naos is divided by two rows of two-tiered columns.

The Temple of Neptune (Paestum, Italy) - details of the seven columns dividing the naos inside the temple. You can clearly see the two-tiered design of the internal columns with only four upper parts preserved.

The Temple of Neptune (Paestum, Italy) - details of the seven columns dividing the naos inside the temple. You can clearly see the two-tiered design of the internal columns with only four upper parts preserved.

The landscape of the Paestum excavation area is dominated by its three temples (we'll see the last one later) and rather large flat areas with remnants of Roman houses (and some other public structures). Among the ruins are Umbrella Pines (Pinus pinea or Stone Pine) native to the Mediterranean region - altogether, it is a very peaceful surrounding really worth to enjoy.

The landscape of the Paestum excavation area is dominated by its three temples (we'll see the last one later) and rather large flat areas with remnants of Roman houses (and some other public structures). Among the ruins are Umbrella Pines (Pinus pinea or Stone Pine) native to the Mediterranean region - altogether, it is a very peaceful surrounding really worth to enjoy.

Paestum (Italy), archeological park, excavation area - a view on Southern Sanctuary between the two Hera temples and the Foro. According to some reconstructions, with the arrival of Lucanians (ancient native people of Italy living in the area) and later on Romans, this area was further developed with more temples and altars built.

Paestum (Italy), archeological park, excavation area - a view on Southern Sanctuary between the two Hera temples and the Foro. According to some reconstructions, with the arrival of Lucanians (ancient native people of Italy living in the area) and later on Romans, this area was further developed with more temples and altars built.

Another public (eastern) entrance (viewed from inside the park) to the Paestum excavation site. Most notably this entrance is known as having one of the two restrooms in the park. See our map for the exact location of the entrance.

Another public (eastern) entrance (viewed from inside the park) to the Paestum excavation site. Most notably this entrance is known as having one of the two restrooms in the park. See our map for the exact location of the entrance.

The view on via Magna Graecia going along the eastern side of the Paestum excavation site. The photo taken approximately from the point where the eastern entrance to the park (see previous photo) is located.

The view on via Magna Graecia going along the eastern side of the Paestum excavation site. The photo taken approximately from the point where the eastern entrance to the park (see previous photo) is located.

"Il Gallo e La Perla" ("The Rooster and the Pearl") restaurant across the street (via Magna Graecia) from the eastern entrance to the Paestum excavation area. This is a simpler (and less expensive) dining option than the "Nettuno" restaurant I mentioned earlier.

"Il Gallo e La Perla" ("The Rooster and the Pearl") restaurant across the street (via Magna Graecia) from the eastern entrance to the Paestum excavation area. This is a simpler (and less expensive) dining option than the "Nettuno" restaurant I mentioned earlier.

There are several better preserved remnants in the Southern Sanctuary area (between the two temples of Hera) and the Foro. While browsing in the park, I noticed that it does not make much sense to identify all existing structures (since scientist disagree anyway on their exact destination). But few remaining architectural and decorative details give us a glimpse of how they could have looked many years ago.

There are several better preserved remnants in the Southern Sanctuary area (between the two temples of Hera) and the Foro. While browsing in the park, I noticed that it does not make much sense to identify all existing structures (since scientist disagree anyway on their exact destination). But few remaining architectural and decorative details give us a glimpse of how they could have looked many years ago.

A close-up on some architectural and decorative details of remnants of structures found in the Southern Sanctuary area (between the two temples of Hera) and the Foro.

A close-up on some architectural and decorative details of remnants of structures found in the Southern Sanctuary area (between the two temples of Hera) and the Foro.

View on Southern Sanctuary from the Piazzale del Foro (Paestum excavation area)

View on Southern Sanctuary from the Piazzale del Foro (Paestum excavation area)

Surprisingly well preserved "pillar" with Roman inscriptions (visible on previous photo when enlarged).

Surprisingly well preserved "pillar" with Roman inscriptions (visible on previous photo when enlarged).

Another view on Southern Sanctuary from the Piazzale del Forum (Paestum excavation area. The Temple of Neptune is in the background. Something airy in this picture and the actual place with its silence and magnificence - I could almost see ancients strolling across the streets of Paestum taking care of their everyday chores.

Another view on Southern Sanctuary from the Piazzale del Forum (Paestum excavation area. The Temple of Neptune is in the background. Something airy in this picture and the actual place with its silence and magnificence - I could almost see ancients strolling across the streets of Paestum taking care of their everyday chores.

Piazzale del Forum at Paestum archeological park - Forum Magnum, or simply the Forum is the center of Roman public life where most of the events important for public used to take place (processions, elections, trials, etc.)

Piazzale del Forum at Paestum archeological park - Forum Magnum, or simply the Forum is the center of Roman public life where most of the events important for public used to take place (processions, elections, trials, etc.)

Adjacent to the Forum (Paestum, Italy) is the Comitium - a designated space in all Roman cities for contiones (meetings) assembling the eligible people for elections, councils and tribunals.

Adjacent to the Forum (Paestum, Italy) is the Comitium - a designated space in all Roman cities for contiones (meetings) assembling the eligible people for elections, councils and tribunals.

Forum (Paestum, Italy) - another, more detailed view on the architectural design of the Comitium.

Forum (Paestum, Italy) - another, more detailed view on the architectural design of the Comitium.

There are several public structures in the area of Paestum's Forum that are better preserved than others. They provide an opportunity to take a closer look at some architectural elements used by ancients (in this case mostly Romans).

There are several public structures in the area of Paestum's Forum that are better preserved than others. They provide an opportunity to take a closer look at some architectural elements used by ancients (in this case mostly Romans).

This photo illustrates the effect of elements on the travertine (limestone) used in the construction at Paestum. With more acidity in rain water, limestone is even more susceptible to the forces of nature (and humans) making the preservation of artifacts made from this stone even more problematic.

This photo illustrates the effect of elements on the travertine (limestone) used in the construction at Paestum. With more acidity in rain water, limestone is even more susceptible to the forces of nature (and humans) making the preservation of artifacts made from this stone even more problematic.

Forum (Paestum, Italy) - a architectural detail of the Comitium.

Forum (Paestum, Italy) - a architectural detail of the Comitium.

The interpretation of this structure found in the Paestum archeological park is as being a gymnasium - quite plausible taking into account that its location is close to the Forum. However, there is no certainty whatsoever as to the exact designation of various structures with usually several interpretations associated with each and every one of them (including major temples) in the park.

The interpretation of this structure found in the Paestum archeological park is as being a gymnasium - quite plausible taking into account that its location is close to the Forum. However, there is no certainty whatsoever as to the exact designation of various structures with usually several interpretations associated with each and every one of them (including major temples) in the park.

As I mentioned before, there is a great deal of uncertainty in interpreting the use and meaning of many things found in Paestum. For example, this strange construction (in what is believed to be a pool) has been thought as a podium for the swimming matches! Other theories go as far as assuming that the original gynnasium was transformed eventually into a sanctuary where the stone construction served some rites.

As I mentioned before, there is a great deal of uncertainty in interpreting the use and meaning of many things found in Paestum. For example, this strange construction (in what is believed to be a pool) has been thought as a podium for the swimming matches! Other theories go as far as assuming that the original gynnasium was transformed eventually into a sanctuary where the stone construction served some rites.

General view of the Amphitheater (Colosseum) located near the Forum. It was constructed during Roman times, and, in particular, during Julius Caesar (100-44 BC) period.

General view of the Amphitheater (Colosseum) located near the Forum. It was constructed during Roman times, and, in particular, during Julius Caesar (100-44 BC) period.

Entrance to Roman Amphitheater (Colosseum) at Paestum archeological park. This photo also shows the remnants of the outer ring added later the Amphitheater. The ring was designed as an arcade resting on pillars, and it significantly expanded the whole structure.

Entrance to Roman Amphitheater (Colosseum) at Paestum archeological park. This photo also shows the remnants of the outer ring added later the Amphitheater. The ring was designed as an arcade resting on pillars, and it significantly expanded the whole structure.

Entrance to Roman Amphitheater (Colosseum) at Paestum archeological park - the entrance to the Amphitheater and its architectural details.

Entrance to Roman Amphitheater (Colosseum) at Paestum archeological park - the entrance to the Amphitheater and its architectural details.

That's how the walls of the Paestum's Amphitheater look like.

That's how the walls of the Paestum's Amphitheater look like.

Amphitheater (Colosseum) in Paestum (Italy) was built following typical Roman design for this type of construction. It is one of the most ancient structures of its kind, and it is much smaller than later amphitheaters built by Romans.

Amphitheater (Colosseum) in Paestum (Italy) was built following typical Roman design for this type of construction. It is one of the most ancient structures of its kind, and it is much smaller than later amphitheaters built by Romans.

Although the Amphitheater (Colosseum) in Paestum (Italy) was not elaborate in its design, this photo shows the presence of hypogeum, an underground structure with the tunnel that can be used for various purposes.

Although the Amphitheater (Colosseum) in Paestum (Italy) was not elaborate in its design, this photo shows the presence of hypogeum, an underground structure with the tunnel that can be used for various purposes.

The Amphitheater (Colosseum) in Paestum (Italy) - only about one third of the structure is visible. The rest of it is buried under the road built in 1930 cutting right across this historic monument.

The Amphitheater (Colosseum) in Paestum (Italy) - only about one third of the structure is visible. The rest of it is buried under the road built in 1930 cutting right across this historic monument.

This is a small Greek-time structure called Ekklesiasterion used in ancient Greece as a gathering place for elections, legislative and other political activities. It was preserved from the Greek period of Paestum since the Romans left it untouched and concealed under a mound. For similar purposes Romans used Comitium (shown previously).

This is a small Greek-time structure called Ekklesiasterion used in ancient Greece as a gathering place for elections, legislative and other political activities. It was preserved from the Greek period of Paestum since the Romans left it untouched and concealed under a mound. For similar purposes Romans used Comitium (shown previously).

The Temple of Athena in Paestum (Italy) was built in about 500 BC which makes it the second in the city's chronological line. It was erected on the highest point of the town, away from other temples, and it is the smallest of three temples found in Paestum. For quite some time, it was incorrectly thought to have been dedicated to Ceres.

The Temple of Athena in Paestum (Italy) was built in about 500 BC which makes it the second in the city's chronological line. It was erected on the highest point of the town, away from other temples, and it is the smallest of three temples found in Paestum. For quite some time, it was incorrectly thought to have been dedicated to Ceres.

There are evidences that with the decline of Paestum, the remaining population settled around the Temple of Athena which eventually  was converted into a Christian church. The latter was also abandoned when the nearby basilica was transformed into an actual church (Basilica Paleocristiana or Chiesa Dell'Annunziata - Church of the Annunciation)

There are evidences that with the decline of Paestum, the remaining population settled around the Temple of Athena which eventually was converted into a Christian church. The latter was also abandoned when the nearby basilica was transformed into an actual church (Basilica Paleocristiana or Chiesa Dell'Annunziata - Church of the Annunciation)

One of the interesting things about the Temple of Athena in Paestum is the mixture of styles being of the Dorian order with the Ionic order used in the porch. Although not preserved inside the structure, the eight columns of the porch have Ionic capitals (currently remaining two of them are in the Archaeological Museum).

One of the interesting things about the Temple of Athena in Paestum is the mixture of styles being of the Dorian order with the Ionic order used in the porch. Although not preserved inside the structure, the eight columns of the porch have Ionic capitals (currently remaining two of them are in the Archaeological Museum).

The northern stretch of paved street known as "via Sacra" (Sacred Street) was connecting Paestum's center with its northern and southern gates. For its time, the street had rather monumental appearance - it was wide (15 feet or 4.5 m) with sidewalks and long porticoes along it. The construction of the street as we know it relates to the Roman period.

The northern stretch of paved street known as "via Sacra" (Sacred Street) was connecting Paestum's center with its northern and southern gates. For its time, the street had rather monumental appearance - it was wide (15 feet or 4.5 m) with sidewalks and long porticoes along it. The construction of the street as we know it relates to the Roman period.

The Heroon (a shrine dedicated to an ancient Greek or Roman hero) was found in the Greek agora (public place in ancient Greek city-states) area; it was dated about 520-510 BC. Archeologists hypothesize that the relayed cult may be attributable to the founder of Poseidonia. Interestingly, with the take over of the Latin colony (273BC), the structure was buried and remained fenced.

The Heroon (a shrine dedicated to an ancient Greek or Roman hero) was found in the Greek agora (public place in ancient Greek city-states) area; it was dated about 520-510 BC. Archeologists hypothesize that the relayed cult may be attributable to the founder of Poseidonia. Interestingly, with the take over of the Latin colony (273BC), the structure was buried and remained fenced.

Few elements of the ancient Roman houses (case Romane) remained preserved in Paestum (Italy). Mosaic floors discovered in some homes are among them. Some of the patterns are quite elaborate.

Few elements of the ancient Roman houses (case Romane) remained preserved in Paestum (Italy). Mosaic floors discovered in some homes are among them. Some of the patterns are quite elaborate.

In this ancient Roman house in Paestum (Italy) only several small piece of the mosaic floor survived the time and the destructive forces of nature. Interestingly, on several occasions older floors were found beneath the existing ones together with other signs of "remodeling."

In this ancient Roman house in Paestum (Italy) only several small piece of the mosaic floor survived the time and the destructive forces of nature. Interestingly, on several occasions older floors were found beneath the existing ones together with other signs of "remodeling."

The third public entrance to the Paestum (central) excavation site - it is located on via Magna Graecia in the northern part of the park (close to the Temple of Athena). This entrance is used mostly by visitors arriving with buses (and there are plenty of them).

The third public entrance to the Paestum (central) excavation site - it is located on via Magna Graecia in the northern part of the park (close to the Temple of Athena). This entrance is used mostly by visitors arriving with buses (and there are plenty of them).

Northen public entrance to the Paestum (central) excavation site located on via Magna Graecia. Entrance tickets are sold here. Entrance to the excavation area is €6, entrance to the museum is €4 (2011, full price, separate tickets). You can also buy "Cumulativo" (valid for both places for three days) for €11.

Northen public entrance to the Paestum (central) excavation site located on via Magna Graecia. Entrance tickets are sold here. Entrance to the excavation area is €6, entrance to the museum is €4 (2011, full price, separate tickets). You can also buy "Cumulativo" (valid for both places for three days) for €11.

Despite the importance and status of the Paestum archeological findings and the beauty of its temples, the modern Paestum, even in the proximity to the central archeological site often produces an impression of somewhat neglected place despite its potential as a tourist destination. This photo of the restroom behind the northern public entrance explains why many people think so.

Despite the importance and status of the Paestum archeological findings and the beauty of its temples, the modern Paestum, even in the proximity to the central archeological site often produces an impression of somewhat neglected place despite its potential as a tourist destination. This photo of the restroom behind the northern public entrance explains why many people think so.

We exit park and moving now to the Paestum Archeological Museum located across the street (via Magna Graecia) and very close to the northern public entrance to the excavation area. We are looking back at the entrance - the park is on the left side; numerous small shops, kiosks, bars are on the right side - souvenirs are everywhere.

We exit park and moving now to the Paestum Archeological Museum located across the street (via Magna Graecia) and very close to the northern public entrance to the excavation area. We are looking back at the entrance - the park is on the left side; numerous small shops, kiosks, bars are on the right side - souvenirs are everywhere.

Paestum Archeological Museum is accessible directly from via Magna Graecia - perhaps 50 yards down the road from the point where this picture was taken. However, do not miss 5th-century Basilica Paleocristiana (Chiesa dell'Annunziata) as the signs in my picture show.

Paestum Archeological Museum is accessible directly from via Magna Graecia - perhaps 50 yards down the road from the point where this picture was taken. However, do not miss 5th-century Basilica Paleocristiana (Chiesa dell'Annunziata) as the signs in my picture show.

The front view on the Paestum Archeological Museum - but that will be a separate (second) part of our gallery dedicated to the Paestum historical monuments.

The front view on the Paestum Archeological Museum - but that will be a separate (second) part of our gallery dedicated to the Paestum historical monuments.

While you browsing Paestum excavation sites, you will not the sea which is close to the ruins - less then one mile (about 1.5 km). Just take via Nettuno and in no time you will hit the area with beaches, camping sites, food establishments. The sea shoreline is not as spectacular as along the neighboring Amalfi coast, but as this picture shows still very inviting!

While you browsing Paestum excavation sites, you will not the sea which is close to the ruins - less then one mile (about 1.5 km). Just take via Nettuno and in no time you will hit the area with beaches, camping sites, food establishments. The sea shoreline is not as spectacular as along the neighboring Amalfi coast, but as this picture shows still very inviting!

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