Positano, Italy - Spiaggia Grande and Western Part (Part 2)

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Lightbox (75 pictures) Tags: Europe   Italy   Positano   scenic placePosted: 11/03/2008 by Myrka
On 'Spiaggia Grande' (Big Beach)

On 'Spiaggia Grande'
(Big Beach)

After rain at Positano

After rain at Positano

As you remember, we started our exploration of Positano at Sponda (this happens to be the Eastern part of the town). We continued idle browsing along the streets of the town going down. As ancients say - all the ways lead to Rome, in our case our ways lead us to "Spiaggia Grande" (Big Beach). The streets are narrow, paved with small and big cob stones and cheerful, colorful, multilingual crowd moves lazily along them, flooding art galleries cafes and stores. We finished are first part of the journey (Positano, Italy (Part 1)) very close to Spiagga Grande. But we are not there yet - several more interesting shops and cafes are to be explored before we reach the beach. From that point we will go up, exploring a portion of the Western part of Positano. Eventually, we'll complete the circle and return to Sponda.

Teresa - another store selling clothing

35.Boutique Teresa - another store selling clothing. Boutique Barba Teresa is one of the numerous stores where you can buy clothes in Via Mulini. They are not Dolce ' Gabana but they are stylish and light ( which is very important in 95 Fahrenheit) and serve their purpose as a beach or summer daytime outfit. Most dresses made of cotton, linen and crinkled gauze, but if you need an evening dress you can find a nice outfit of organza. Boutique Barba Teresa is a sole proprietorship as most small stores in Positano are.

Jacket Made in Positano

36. Jacket 'Made in Positano' Another example of 'Moda Positano'. Here is an absolutely gorgeous jacket with lace, organza ribbons, embroidery and plus style and taste - what else do you want! How much? We did not even ask. Do not forget it is 95 degrees and though the store is in the shade even to think that you need to try it on make you faint. It is too hot to be interested in a warm jacket

Art Gallery Carosone

37. Art Gallery 'Carosone' Galleria Carosone, Via Del Saracino,22, has a good representation of Naples area artists. Starting with Luidgi Bertolingrande and Franco Rispoli who painted at the beginning and middle of the 20th century, to contemporary Domenico Chiazza, Andrea Patrisi and many others. You can always see people looking at beautiful landscapes, genre scenes and portraits displayed inside and outside. (Photos are prohibited). On the right is an entrance to 'Sandali su Misura' - Sandals by Measurement. The tradition of making tailored sandals was born shortly after the end of the Second World War in Positano. Simple models were made at the beginning but with time the sandals became more sophisticated. Celebrities who came to Positano contributed a great deal in their popularity.

Cross-road at the end of Via Dei Mulini

38. Cross-road at the end of Via Dei Mulini. If you just for a second ignore the crowds of people, hotels, stores, clothes, pictures and look at the street itself, you will notice that in some places it is more like a tunnel cut in the tropical jungle. Different vines including roses arched over your head give you this impression . Shade and flower fragrance serve everybody well in a hot summer day. Anyway, it's time to decide - to go into a hot bright sun to the right (to Piazza di Gioia) or left to hide in a blessing shade of flowering vines of Via Dei Mulini. Well, as I said, in Positano all roads go to Spiaggia Grande.

On Piazza Flavio Gioia

39. On Piazza Flavio Gioia. This piazza was called after Flavio Gioia who was marine pilot and an inventor. He refined the sailor's compass by getting rid of its needle and changed it with a fleur-de-lis design pointing North. Then the needle was placed in a small box with a glass lid. On the right you can see church, Chiesa S. Maria Assunta and Bell Tower.

Chiesa (Church) S. Maria Assunta, Positano

40. Chiesa (Church) S. Maria Assunta, Positano with its colorful, glazed, Majolica-tile dome. The church got its Baroque makeover In the 18th century. Inside is a fine manger scene - so popular in Italian churches - with its original 18th-century figurines dressed in folk costumes of the age.

Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta

41. Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta. the cathedral of St Maria Assunta characterized by the imposing majolica dome, visible from almost every panoramic point of the town, and divided into three naves, inside which one finds the icon of the Black Madonna, painted in the 13th century and evident of Byzantine inspiration.

Inside the Church of Santa Maria Assunta

42. Inside the Church of Santa Maria Assunta. According to a romantic legend Saracen pirates had a painting of Mary on their ship as plunder. When a violent storm hit, the ship was in great danger and about to sink. Then the painting of Mary spoke, saying, "Posa, posa" ("Lay me down"), and the ship glided safely into this harbor. The pirates were so stricken that they became Christians, and kept the painting and the town became known as "Posa-tano" (after Mary's command).

Wedding at Chiesa S. Maria Assunta

43. Wedding at Chiesa S. Maria Assunta. The day is hot but the gathering is formal for a wedding ceremony. Women are luckier since they can wear light sleeveless dresses - men are all in costumes and neckties

Restaurant La Cambusa

44. Restaurant "La Cambusa''. If you are standing on the steps of an impressive staircase facing Spaiggia Grande, 'La Cambusa' ("Galley") restaurant will be on your right. This cosy place overlooking Marina Grande represents a part of Positano history. Established at the end of 1960 by Luigi Russo 'Positanese' by birth, son of a blacksmith. Restaurant offers seafood local specialties (the lobsters 'Li Galli' are advised by knowledgeable people) for forty years and is very popular - we believe for a good reason.

Restaurants La Pergola and Buca di Baco

45. Restaurants La Pergola and Buca di Bacco' - Buca di Bacco or Tavern of Bacchus is situated on the Great Beach, looking with all its windows at the sea and timeless view of Positano. This restaurant is a part of the hotel with the same name. La Pergola is another restaurant next to Buca di Bacco. There is also a bar called Buca di Bacco which in fact belongs to La Pergola. This bar is especially well known and popular among tourist. Both restaurants are good offering informal meals during the daytime and romantic atmosphere at night.

Inside restaurant Pergola

46. Inside restaurant La Pergola. In good weather all the windows are opened and as they are built as a glass wall, then the front wall disappears and gives you the view of the beach and the sea. Seafood and pasta are good in the restaurant (you can order a pizza as well), service is quick and polite. Prices for full dinner for two are around €110 - €140 (prices 2008).

On the Spiaggia Grande (Big Beach)

47. On the 'Spiaggia Grande' (Big Beach). The Positano beach is half-public (with no shower) and half-private (around $15 for lounge chair, umbrella, shower facilities and drink service). As is the case with private beaches anywhere along the Mediterranean, whether you use the gear for 10 minutes or 10 hours, the price is the same.

On the Spiaggia Grande (Big Beach)

48. On the 'Spiaggia Grande' (Big Beach). Spiaggia Grande the largest beach of about 10 in Positano area. But do not expect to see something like beaches of Florida or Caribbean - white sand from your feet to horizon. Big Beach is a cozy place in the bay surrounded with beautiful cliffs, without feeling of endless eternity of the ocean. This is friendly Mediterranean , which has been friendly to people for thousands of years. The beach has a dusky brownish gray sand mixed with small pebbles. Rope separates the parking space for boats from swimming area.

Rent-a-boat and excursions booth at the marina of Positano

49. Rent-a-boat and excursions booth at the marina of Positano. If you think that you can see all the breathtaking views of Positano and Amalfi Coast from the surrounding cliffs - it is not true. Amalfi Coast cliffs hide often beautiful small beaches, caves with turquoise water and picturesque spots. How to enjoy all this? There is only one way - rent a boat. There are plenty of them in Positano. To go to Capri or Ischia you can also rent a boat. Positano agencies offer boat tours with boat drivers and guides and without them. Renting a boat offers a romantic experience of a night tour to small towns and charming restaurants on the beaches. .

Strolling along Spiaggia Grande (Big Beach)

50. Strolling along Spiaggia Grande (Big Beach). Big beach is a very nice place to stroll after a good swim or a good lunch (or, any time, actually). On your left, you can see beautiful Positano cliffs with small villas, hotels and restaurants clinging to them; on the right - small terraces with cafes or oasis' of trees which sometimes fence the beach and endless sea from your eyes.

An artist

51. Every year a lot of artists from all over the world come to Positano to capture its unforgettable views on canvas and satisfy tourists' demand for art. Positano art market is flooded with paintings for every taste. The sceneries of the town, its cliffs, the sea line prevail over other pictures. Here is an artist who we watched from the terrace of restaurant L'Incanto. His preparations for the work were slow, detailed and deliberate. Even if the picture was finished in five minutes of net time and was not of the highest artistry, we enjoyed his performance in front of the canvas!

Restaurant L Incanto

52. Restaurant L'Incanto" L'Incanto is a cosy restaurant located on Spiaggia Grande. With its big glass windows opened you can enjoy your food, watch passersby or artists and smell salty breeze of the see. Restaurant speciality is seafood. The service is quick and polite. It is quite affordable - lunch for two with wine is about €60.

Inside restaurant 'L Incanto'

53. Inside restaurant L'Incanto. Restaurant is big enough but cosy. It reminds a yacht with wood and polished brass decor. You can actually see a small sail boat full of fish at the entrance of the restaurant.

Via del Saracino as seen from Via Trara Genoino

54. Via del Saracino as seen from Via Trara Genoino. This is an usual street for Positano: it's relatively wide and short. Because of this, it seems more like a piazza. People coming from the Western part of the town use it to get to the Spiaggia Grande.

Restaurant O Capurale

55. Restaurant O'Capurale Via Regina Giovanna, 12. Restaurant O'Capurale was opened at the end of the 19th century and as story tells, consisted of a room with four tables and a small kitchen where the owner herself cooked local dishes. Now restaurant O'Capurale considered to be one of the historic places of Positano. You can dine inside or outside (the tables just placed in the street). There is seafood and meat in the menu.

Azienda Autonoma Soggiorno e Turismo di Positano

56. Azienda Autonoma Soggiorno e Turismo di Positano - modestly looking office with no people coming in and out. According to its Web site, it's an independent tourist agency, celebrated 50th anniversary in 2003 and "entrusted with promotion of the area." The information office "assists, through direct personal relations and through the media, the tourists who wish to discover the area, providing them with useful information."

Via Del Saracino has one of many stores in Positano that sells 
clothing

57. Via Del Saracino has one of many stores in Positano that sells clothing. Via Del Saracino is less glamourous than other streets located in the proximity of the Spiaggia Grande. Nevertheless, there are some nice shops as well as restaurants.

Pescheria C.I.C.A. (fish store)

58. Pescheria C.I.C.A. (fish store). Such a town does not want to admit that its fishermen have hung up their nets to take jobs in bars and boutique hotels. However, that's probably the case. Regardless of the fact that many restaurants offer fish dishes, we have not seen any other place where it would be possible to buy fish in retail.

Terrace of the Covo Dei Saraceni ('Savino' restaurant and hotel)

59. Terrace of the Covo Dei Saraceni ('Savino' restaurant and hotel) Via Regina Giovanna, 5. Covo Dei Saraceni is a 4 star hotel with swimming pool and restaurant which looks onto Spaiggia Grande and Marina. Hotel has no private beach, like San Pietro in Positano, but has very attractive views and beautiful terraces where you can dine overlooking Positano bay. This is a very popular hotel at an excellent location with a good reputation.

Believe it or not but this is a street - via Dei Gladioli

60. Believe it or not but this is a street - via Dei Gladioli is an example of famouse "scalinatella". There are a lot of streets of the kind in Positano - don't forget the town is built on the cliffs and sometimes to reach a hotel or somebody's house is a real adventure. Scalinatellas are used by locals and tourists alike, and very often are the only means of "transportation" in the town.

Casa (Hotel) Villa Cosenza (Via Trara Genoino 18, Positano)

61. Casa (Hotel) Villa Cosenza (Via Trara Genoino 18, Positano). Be prepared to use "scalinatella" a lot when you stay in Casa Villa Cosenza. From the road where your bus or taxi stops, you have to make 200 steps to reach the hotel. You'll be rewarded with a beautiful view and comparativly cheap prices (single occupant rate is €60 per day). But my advice is - use a valet service to bring your suitcases (about €30). It's worth it.

Albergo (Hotel) Miramare (Via Trara Genoino, Positano)

62. Albergo (Hotel) Miramare (Via Trara Genoino, Positano) is a 4 star hotel. It was built in 1946 by Carlo Cinque, Positano visionary businessman. Miramare is located in the center of Positano, about three hundred meters above the sea level. It means that everybody should be prepared to use scalinatella - 100 steps from the parking lot and 201 steps down to the beach. The hotel is small - about 18 rooms. Prices range between €150 and €360 (2008).

Private residence in Positano

63. Private residence in Positano The stairs and the door look so romantic that it seems to be not an entrance to a house but almost the entrance into a medieval castle. It is difficult to imagine what is inside but my guess that this private residence enjoys a good view. Its windows look onto Spiaggia Grande.

Hotel Poseidon (Via Pasitea,148)

64. Hotel Poseidon (Via Pasitea,148). It is located on Via Pasitea - this means that you have to use one of the scalinatellas or wind down and down following the curves of Vialle Pasitea to get to the beach. Poseidon is a 4-star, 51 room hotel with Mediterranean style furnishing and decorations, pool and restaurant. Prices for see view rooms are between €310 - €630.

Parking lot across the street from Hotel Poseidon

65. Hotel's Poseidon parking lot is located in front of the hotel across the street. As you see, the parking lot is not very big, but big enough to park your car if you drove to Positano all the way down from Naples or Rome. Note that the hotel itself is located on the hill side of the road - meaning that your sea views are mixed with the street noise.

Casa di S. Caterina - a two start hotel in Positano

66. Casa di St. Caterina - a two stars, 10-room hotel in Positano on Via Pasitea. If you need a cheap accommodation in Positano, you may consider this hotel. If you do - do it on your own risk. Its building is decaying as you see on this photo; only cash is accepted; we have heard stories about poor cleaning service. Advertised terrace is in fact a shared one.

You do not see hotel Casa Albertina (Via della Tavolozza, 3) here, but 
using scalinatella you can reach it

67. You do not see hotel Casa Albertina (Via della Tavolozza, 3 here, but using "scalinatella" you can reach it. Casa Albertina is situated in the high part of Positano. From Punta Reginella you have to take two flights of scalinatella to reach Casa Albertina.It is a small 3 star hotel - 20 rooms, priced from €170 to €480 in high season. There is a restaurant specializing in seafood. Restaurant is looking onto the sea.

Art gallery Idee dArte (Viale Pasitea, 76)

68. Art gallery Idee d'Arte (Viale Pasitea, 76). In the gallery you can find photographs, serigraphy, graphic and object designs on display and for sale. Nothing really that I like, but who knows, may be something will attract your attention during the walk on a hot summer day..

Garage Mandara with gas station Agip

69. Garage 'Mandara' with gas station 'Agip'. In addition to being the second gas station in Positano, they offer car body repairs, tire repairs and replacements and car wash.

Garage Di Gennaro, Positano

70. Garage Di Gennaro, Positano. Keep in mind that the only road through Positano is one-way going from West to East. So if you missed a place, you will have to continue until you reach Sponda and then turn left to SS163 (also called in town limits Via Guglielmo Marconi) and go back to the point where Via Pasitea starts off SS163.

The back of Garage Di Gennaro - it is actually very big

71. The back of Garage Di Gennaro - it's actually very big and has six levels. As many structures in Positano it is built on a steep cliff on a side of U-turn of Viale Pasitea. There is a shortcut to bypass the U-turn if you come from the Western side of the town, but the surrounding area is not very pleasant.

Positano, Italy - Sponda and Mulini (Part 1)

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