naviquan

Caggiano Macchia
dei Goti Taurasi
DOCG, 2001

Deep, luminous
ruby-red. Intense
and persistent
aromas of grilled
bacon fat, chocolate-
covered dried
cherries, mint and
smoke, with a touch
of spicy graphite.
Profoundly rich,
spicy and dense,
with flavors of
raspberry jam, red
cherry liqueur, black
pepper and grilled
steak.
International Wine
Cellar - 94 points

Campania, Avellino Province -
Taurasi production area

If you like Italian red wine, and, in particular, wine produced from the Nebiolo grape like Barolo, Gattinara and Brabaresco, and if you never tried Taurasi, you should definately taste this exquisite wine from Campania region in Southern Italy. I bet you will not be disappointed - in fact, Taurasi is known as the Barolo of the South for its excellent bouquet, intensity and flavor. The combination of these qualities make Taurasi conceptually similar to Barolo while offering its own variations of taste and aromas.

Strangely, Taurasi is a very antique and a new wine at the same time. Perhaps this is the case where we may say that every new thing is an old one but well forgotten? Indeed, from what is known, Taurasi was first produced by the Greeks who had conquered this section of Italy perhaps in 800 BC - 750 BC. These origins can be also found in the name of grape variety used to produce the wine - Aglianico which is very similar to Ellenico (or Hellenic in English). The ancient town of "Taurasia" was destroyed by Romans in 268 BC, and since 180 BC Romans stated re-populating Campi Taurasini ("Ager Taurasinus") and resumed growing the so-called "Greek" grapes. In 42 BC, Taurasia was granted to Roman solders, veterans of the Battle of Philippi, who started the production of "vitis ellenica." Ancient Roman historian Tito Livio (64 BC - 17) mentions "Taurasia dalle vigne opime" as an emperor supplier of excellent wine.

However, the wine we know and drink today is not the one produced in Greek settlements and later on by Romans. Modern Taurasi was introduced to the world by a winery own by Mastroberardino family with one particular vintage of 1968. Since then, the popularity of the wine has been growing and became a real phenomenon. Taurasi became a "Denominazione di Origine Controllata" DOC in 1970 and was promoted to "Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita" (DOCG) status in 1993. Taurasi is not the only wine produced from the Aglianico grape - this grape is popular in Southern Italy, but wine and its quality differ significantly from place to place depending upon the soil and climat where the vines grow. Because of its excellent quality, great body and structure, Taurasi has acquired an international reputation in many countries including the United States.

Vesevo Taurasi
DOCG, 2001

Vesevo's 2001
Taurasi offers
scorched earth,
tar, cola, spices,
dark fruit and sweet
toasted oak on a
generous,
fullbodied frame.
88 - Wine Advocate

According to the DOC "Taurasi", only specific locations (all in the province of Avellino) can be used to grow Aglianico which should be at least 85% with other 15% from other local grapes of the allowed varieties. The denomination limits the amount of wine what can be produced from one hectare. The "forzatura" (the practice of adding non-natural alcohol) is strictly prohibited. Taurasi wine should have alcoholic content not less than 12.5% when it's released to the general consumers. Taurasi must be aged three years before release with a minimum of one year in wooden barrels. For Taurasi Reserva these numbers are respectively 4 years and 18 months.

I already mentioned that Taurasi is often perceived as as Barolo of the South with its powerful structure, rich taste and strong tannins. But you will also find some similarities between Taurasi and Southern France wines such as Madiran and Bandol. One difference between Taurasi and Barolo you will notice though immediately - their colors: Taurasi has intense garnet and ruby hues whereas Barolos tend to be more transparent with burgundy and brown hues. As far as Southern France wine is concerned, it has somewhat similar shades of red; however, Taurasi is unmistakably more refined despite it's strong attitude.

I think this unique combination of both traits, refinement and power, is the most amazing characteristic of Taurasi. Here are various descriptions usually given to Taurasi:

• Profoundly rich, spicy and dense
• Highly refined; delicate
• Powerful with certain refinement
• Full bodied with large structure
• Full, harmonic and balanced (this is actually an official requirement from DOC)
• Massive, imposing style
• Remarkably delineated and nuanced
• Stunning display of character
• Dry and austere, with aromatic vein
• With persistent finish

DOCG Label and
Seal for Taurasi

Typical Avellino Landscape

Flavors of dark fruits - black raspberries, plums and maybe some dark cherries - are also very characteristic of Taurasi wine. In tasting note you will also find frequent mentioning of some coffee, cigar box and leather aromas as well as smoke, ash, violet, mint spices, licorice. Another very important thing about Taurasi is the fact that it ages very well. It can be a great idea to buy a good Taurasi and leave it for several years to age. I particularly noticed that old Taurasi develops an earthy bouquet reminiscent of warn and humid floor of the rain forest. Combined with long and velvet finish, Taurasi produces very pleasant effect and wonderful memories.

As any full body wine, Taurasi is very good with hearty food (it can really overpower light dishes) particularly as an accompaniment to roasted red meats. With Taurasi it's an absolute must decanting the wine for a few hours especially if it's young. One problem with Taurasi is its price - as everything good, it's rather expensive. Prepare to pay at least $40 - $45 for a bottle of a decent Taurasi. How to find Taurasi? If you are in a big city like New York, there will be no problem to find this wine in a big well supplied store. Some well known wine chains like Total also offer a limited selection of Taurasi. Otherwise, search Internet for "Taurasi" - and good luck and good drinking.